Posted by Ian Singer on August 12, 2008, 11:46 pm
Couple of hints please on bike I just bought.
1. I was told that under hard acceleration in second gear it kind of
skips. I thought they maybe meant the clutch slipped but they said no it
kind of speeds up goes clunk and seems like it skips a tooth. Any ideas?
I though it may have been because it was running synthetic oil so
changed to Castrol 10-30 this morning and yes it still is doing it,
about three times in a 20 mine ride where I never got about 5,000 RPM.
2. There is a digital display on right side of instrument cluster that
is temp gauge and gas gauge. Display is totally dead but I have low gas
warning light on and haven't had chance to see if the sender is still
plugged in. In the main wiring bundle that goes from front to back
under the gas tank, the orange and green wires were broken so I fixed
them but no change. I pulled the instrument cluster and nothing obvious.
Previous owner thought a defective PCB but I am dubious.
3. The main odometer underneath the instrument cluster is not working,
but the speedo, tach and trip meter are, and presumably the signal is
coming from same place. Also the turn signal cancelling works so either
the distance/speed sender or tilt sensor work.
The Haynes manual does not list a 1984 that is 750cc as the US model was
switched to 700cc. This is Canadian model which was not so I am not sure
about the wiring diagram. This is unit that has only one CDI unit. It
says the orange wire is for the front winker but front running lights
and turn signals work. I have not checked to see if they are dual
filament bulbs. There is an orange wire in headlight case that is not
hooked up and a gray one that is spliced to the other orange one.
The bike is stock except for Hondaline backrest, top end oil mod, steel
brake line and fan switch. Front shock seals were replaced, prolink
shock may have been upgraded and grease nipples were added. It is also
running radials which are supposed to make it much more responsive. Also
apparently the clutch basket was swapped for another one to see if it
got rid of the problem. It did not so previous owner did not wind it out
in second.
I adjusted rear brake freeplay with the adjust screw on linkage and now
the rear brake squeals like a train with emergency braking. I am hoping
that it is because it was sitting for two moths and it just needs to get
the dust out.
Ian Singer
PS if you want 81 Suzuki GS650GLX, 82 Kawasaki KZ750-R1, or 1983 Suzuki
GS650GLD I have them all for sale.
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Posted by Ian Singer on August 12, 2008, 11:51 pm
Ian Singer wrote:
> Couple of hints please on bike I just bought.
I forgot a point. Cam chains appear noisy but quieten down at speed. As
they are self adjusting I guess that means a teardown. If they are
really bad and slip will one or more of the four valves hit a piston.
Ian Singer
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See my homepage at http://www.iansinger.com
hosted on http://www.1and1.com/?k_id 623894
All genealogy is stored in TMG from http://www.whollygenes.com
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I am near Toronto Canada, can I tell where you are from your reply?
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Posted by ~ on August 13, 2008, 1:12 am
> I forgot a point. Cam chains appear noisy but quieten down at speed. As
> they are self adjusting I guess that means a teardown. If they are
> really bad and slip will one or more of the four valves hit a piston.
Check the sabmag.org forum to see what other riders have done about
noisy cam chains.
There may be aftermarket chains with masterlinks available. If so,
it's a matter of carefully
grinding two pins off the old chain, hooking up the new chain and
carefully threading the new
chain around the crankshaft by turning it manually.
If a loose cam chain jumps one tooth, it's possible to retard the
exhaust valve closing by about 20 crankshaft degrees, so you could
very well bend a valve even though the pistons do have valve pockets
in the crown and the pistons don't move vertically very much as they
are near TDC.
Posted by ~ on August 13, 2008, 12:16 am
> 1. �I was told that under hard acceleration in second gear it kind of
> skips. I thought they maybe meant the clutch slipped but they said no it
> kind of speeds up goes clunk and seems like it skips a tooth. Any ideas?
> � I though it may have been because it was running synthetic oil so
> changed to Castrol 10-30 this morning and yes it still is doing it,
> about three times in a 20 mine ride where I never got about 5,000 RPM.
It's impossible for the gear to "skip a tooth" because it's a constant
mesh transmission with five pairs of gears that are *always* meshed
together, and *always* turning when the motorcycle is moving.
Some of the gears are splined to the shaft they are on, and they are
called "pinion gears". They make the transmission shafts turn.
Gear shifting is accomplished by sliding three of the freewheeling
gears *sideways* on their shaft.
The shifter dogs on the side of the freewheeling 2nd gear are probably
worn down from hard shifting under load.
There are very few motorcycles where you can get at 2nd gear to
undercut the dogs with a
dremel tool.
There is another possibility though. You might just have an adjustment
problem with the
monkey motion mechanism that rotates the shifter drum to slide the
gears sideways on the shaft.
www.bikebandit.com
Gearshift-Drum diagram
#19: PIN ,A AC 176666-001 is probably an eccentric pin that allows you
to adjust the mickey mouse mechanism a little bit.
Those are probably the only accessible parts in the gear shifting
mechanism. Everything else probably requires splitting the cases for
access.
Posted by Ian Singer on August 13, 2008, 12:35 am
RhiannonX@gmail.com wrote:
> There is another possibility though. You might just have an adjustment
> problem with the
> monkey motion mechanism that rotates the shifter drum to slide the
> gears sideways on the shaft.
>
> www.bikebandit.com
>
> Gearshift-Drum diagram
>
> #19: PIN ,A AC 176666-001 is probably an eccentric pin that allows you
> to adjust the mickey mouse mechanism a little bit.
>
> Those are probably the only accessible parts in the gear shifting
> mechanism. Everything else probably requires splitting the cases for
> access.
At
http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/honda-motorcycle-vf700s-sabre-1984/o/m2755
Which is for 700cc not 750 so could be different I see the pin. Is it
suggesting its accessible on the left side of the crankcase and if it
only slips in 2nd would adjusting it mess up the other 5 gears?
Ian Singer
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See my homepage at http://www.iansinger.com
hosted on http://www.1and1.com/?k_id 623894
All genealogy is stored in TMG from http://www.whollygenes.com
Charts and searching using TNG from http://www.tngsitebuilding.com
I am near Toronto Canada, can I tell where you are from your reply?
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