Key Doesn't Work Disk Brake Lock
Groups | Search | About
Login Password
Register Now! Lost Password?

General Motorcycle Group - All things motorcycle 

Page 2 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Key Doesn't Work Disk Brake Lock td 06-09-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Vito on June 9, 2008, 7:13 pm
Suzuki used excessive Loctite on my GSXR's rotor bolts and I broke
three bolts before I realized the bolts weren't just torqued really
tight...

It's SOP. Plan to heat the bolts with a torch enough to burn out the
loctite.



Posted by Jerry on June 9, 2008, 5:28 pm


>
>> you have to just fuck with it. spray some wd 40 in it and make sure the
>> key
>> is really going all the way in. Mine used to do this to me until I
>> figured
>> it out that the key was not exactly all the way in. otherwise, drill,
>> torch
>> it, hit it with a big hammer or see if a locksmith can get it off.
>
> You ought to be able to grind through it too. I'd avoid
> the use of big hammers for fear of knocking the disk
> out of true.
>
> If the lock's just through the disk rotor and not attached
> to the wheel, you could also unbolt and remove the rotor
> from the wheel, then take it to a locksmith or welder.
>

I was just joking about the hammer and torch. No one is that stupid. Right?


Posted by on June 9, 2008, 5:38 pm
wrote:

>
>
>>
>>> you have to just fuck with it. spray some wd 40 in it and make sure the
>>> key
>>> is really going all the way in. Mine used to do this to me until I
>>> figured
>>> it out that the key was not exactly all the way in. otherwise, drill,
>>> torch
>>> it, hit it with a big hammer or see if a locksmith can get it off.
>>
>> You ought to be able to grind through it too. I'd avoid
>> the use of big hammers for fear of knocking the disk
>> out of true.
>>
>> If the lock's just through the disk rotor and not attached
>> to the wheel, you could also unbolt and remove the rotor
>> from the wheel, then take it to a locksmith or welder.
>>
>
>I was just joking about the hammer and torch. No one is that stupid. Right?

        Of course not. With a good cutting torch, you won't need a
hammer.


--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo online at www.pmilligan.net/palm/
Free 'People finder' program now at www.pmilligan.net/finder.htm

Posted by Turby on June 10, 2008, 2:56 am
wrote:

>I was just joking about the hammer and torch. No one is that stupid. Right?

You're new around here, aren't you?

--
Turby the Turbosurfer

Posted by David T. Ashley on June 9, 2008, 4:25 pm
> Has anyone had this problem before? How can I get the dang lock from
> the hole in the disk brake? It's the Bully brand. Can I maybe drill
> through the key cylinder, drilling the guts out of it? I'm afraid to do
> this before getting some advice because I don't want to worsen the
> problem.
>
> This is the last time I'll use one these type of locks.

As general advice with locks, avoid mixing wet and dry lubricants, and go
"dry" whenever possible. If you get the thing to work, clean it out with
tuner cleaner or something to remove any oil then pump it full of dry
graphite.

The other poster's advice about making sure the key is in fully is valid.

If none of that works ...

I'd avoid blow-torching it or hammering it because of the brake disk. I
don't know for sure how it would work on hardened steel, but the best luck
I've had for surgical operations was to use a Dremel Moto Tool with one of
the abrasive cutting wheels. If you have an accessible point of attack
(something without a huge cross section you can cut through that will get
the lock off), mask the area around to prevent the dust from getting
everywhere then go after it with a full package of those cutting disks and a
Moto Tool. It might take you 30 minutes, but it will be worth it if you
don't damage anything else.

Those darned disks _should_ be able to go through hardened steel.

The Moto Tool works great because it is a fine instrument and makes about as
much vibration as a dental drill.

An angle grinder would probably get it off, too, but that is a rather coarse
tool and makes a lot of vibration and you might still damage something.

Some of the Dremel accessories are here:

http://www.hobbylinc.com/prods/rbp_dre.htm

You can typically get 10-30 of those cutting wheels cheap at a place like
Lowe's.

The wheels are consumable (they wear), so if you try this get the biggest
package of them you can.

The experience I had doing that was when a friend brought home clothing
where the cashier had forgotten to remove the anti-shoplifting device. It
was a challenge to get through the steel without blowing the pressurized dye
cartridges. Moto-tool did just fine.



Page 2 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Do Seat Heating Coils On Wing Work In Hot Weather? June 19, 2007, 6:17 pm
brake pads.... December 12, 2006, 2:24 pm
N00bie here with a brake question. November 4, 2006, 7:10 pm
DOT5 brake fluid. December 15, 2006, 10:08 am
Re: Brake fluid allergy?! May 6, 2007, 2:50 pm
Re: Brake fluid allergy?! May 6, 2007, 2:50 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap