Re: Scooter Soldering Kit Battery - Page 3

 

It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands off
and start all over again!

 

soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards.  (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

 


Always remember to slide a piece of shrink wrap up the wire BEFORE starting.
That's the 1st step in a clean solder joint, All metal must be clean and
bright, Then flux and heat to temp, Tinning sometimes
makes the job quicker, After feeding solder and getting a smooth flow allow
to cool before moving to avoid a cold solder joint.

 


I'm sure that tens of millions of technicians and plumbers world wide with
thank you for telling them that what they have been doing successfully for
years really isn't working!!!   Bull shit.

At the point where the flux liquefies and begins to boil......but before it
burns to a crisp.....THAT is when you apply the solder......or at least
those of us who know what we are doing do.

 

You're really good at twisting words aren't you - especially having snipped
all the relevant content that would have shown up your twisted rant.

With cored solder the solder is applied simultaneously with the flux - not
after the flux has burned as you mischievously suggest.

I suggest you try to find a topic you know squat about to criticise!