Re: battery replacement interval

 


|>I'd double-check for a vent, as I believe that even the sealed lead-acid
|>batteries can give off hydrogen gas if over-charged.  Usually there is a
|>little info' sheet in the box the battery comes in, at least there is
|>for a quality battery.  $85 (CAD $) is a reasonable price for a good

    What about $215 YT/GT9B-4 at Daytona Motors/Atlas/Yamaha/Honda or
Davidson Batterries...they call these specialty batteries, but the Chinese
Clone ones are just as good, not as pretty but they work fine for half the
price...

    Vents on the AGM/SLA rubber strip ones may leak a little at the
edges of the rubber strip that says (do not remove)..it unbalances the cells
and the center one may puff out a little.

    Regular refill vents must be refilled 1/4" from the top of the
plate...but hey why not experiment if the battery is hopeless, otherwise use
discretion....AGMs with a rubber vent cover, may be refilled with 1 teaspoon
of water per cell, if you wanna chance it.

    They AGM/SLA/Regular all leak some micro nano amount at the
terminals, but haven't they always.

Bob

 


    I put 2 12v/8amp batteries on my OPz (UPS) computer power backup
system, one is AGM, and the other was the original 6 year old WET sla (old
style) battery.

    The  WET sla (old style) battery was hard to charge up and would
overheat on a charger, so I put it on a trickle for 9 months.

    I disconnected the battery just now, waited a few hours and checked
th 12v voltage on a good DVMeter. So what I'm reading now, is 23.1+ volts no
load open circuit and climbing.......WTF did I do to get it to work like
that.....the OPz (UPS) trickle charge has a desulfator algorithm??
    Maybe there is something in that constant charge vs. automatic agm
"float".

    Maybe this bat should go back in the bike.....it's most likely a WET
batt since others don't do that THESE days. Although I heard that you can;t
start this bike/scoot with more than 14.4volts, or you'll blow a switch....I
don't want to find out....

Bob





On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 08:50:21 -0700, Dennis Lee Bieber

|>declaimed the following in alt.scooter:
|>
|>> It depends on the quality and how it's used/maintained.  I had one
|>> year-old battery that a previous owner put in a Honda C70 that wouldn't
|>> stay charged above 11.5 volts.  But that scoot has no regulator to
|>> prevent over-charging when ridden flat-out and not much charging current
|>> at low speed. That particular battery was also a very cheap no-name
|>> brand.  I charged it intermittently during the three winter months it
|>> didn't get much use but even a de-sulphating charger didn't help.  It's
|>> also possible the previous owner filled the battery with tap water that
|>> had lots of minerals in it instead of distilled or 'de-ionized' water.
|>>
|>    Sounds like my Aprilia Scarabeo 500...
|>
|>    A battery killer in city driving -- charging voltage (as reported by
|>dash display) at idle, when warm, easily drops to <12V... But at over
|>2200RPM, it will climb back up to 13.7-13.8 (on high beam, low-beam
|>sucks more, 13.5) [Note: when new, the low beam voltages displayed as
|>13.9-14.1; shop says it is exceeding 14V at freeway speeds -- I'm
|>guessing some electrical decay in the display panel, since when new the
|>speedometer was within 2% of a GPS unit, but is now 10% off]
|>
|>    Replaced the stock Yuasa battery at two years. I now have two years
|>on the second battery and should hook it to the desulphation charger
|>(which will run about 90 minutes and then throw up its hands with "I
|>can't do anything to this battery")

 


    Sorry Folks.....false DVM reading....

    It seems my DVM was defective in the reading, because it needed a 9v
battery itself, and was just leeching off the 12v battery.....which explains
the climbing Volt rates. Now to rollback on all those other DVM readings I
did on other things....

    And I thought I had found a magical 12v/8amp battery....

Bob



|>
|>    I put 2 12v/8amp batteries on my OPz (UPS) computer power backup
|>system, one is AGM, and the other was the original 6 year old WET sla (old
|>style) battery.
|>
|>    The  WET sla (old style) battery was hard to charge up and would
|>overheat on a charger, so I put it on a trickle for 9 months.
|>
|>    I disconnected the battery just now, waited a few hours and checked
|>th 12v voltage on a good DVMeter. So what I'm reading now, is 23.1+ volts no
|>load open circuit and climbing.......WTF did I do to get it to work like
|>that.....the OPz (UPS) trickle charge has a desulfator algorithm??
|>    Maybe there is something in that constant charge vs. automatic agm
|>"float".
|>
|>    Maybe this bat should go back in the bike.....it's most likely a WET
|>batt since others don't do that THESE days. Although I heard that you can;t
|>start this bike/scoot with more than 14.4volts, or you'll blow a switch....I
|>don't want to find out....
|>
|>Bob
|>
|>
|>
|>
|>
|>On Sun, 18 Apr 2010 08:50:21 -0700, Dennis Lee Bieber
|>
|>|>declaimed the following in alt.scooter:
|>|>
|>|>> It depends on the quality and how it's used/maintained.  I had one
|>|>> year-old battery that a previous owner put in a Honda C70 that wouldn't
|>|>> stay charged above 11.5 volts.  But that scoot has no regulator to
|>|>> prevent over-charging when ridden flat-out and not much charging current
|>|>> at low speed. That particular battery was also a very cheap no-name
|>|>> brand.  I charged it intermittently during the three winter months it
|>|>> didn't get much use but even a de-sulphating charger didn't help.  It's
|>|>> also possible the previous owner filled the battery with tap water that
|>|>> had lots of minerals in it instead of distilled or 'de-ionized' water.
|>|>>
|>|>    Sounds like my Aprilia Scarabeo 500...
|>|>
|>|>    A battery killer in city driving -- charging voltage (as reported by
|>|>dash display) at idle, when warm, easily drops to <12V... But at over
|>|>2200RPM, it will climb back up to 13.7-13.8 (on high beam, low-beam
|>|>sucks more, 13.5) [Note: when new, the low beam voltages displayed as
|>|>13.9-14.1; shop says it is exceeding 14V at freeway speeds -- I'm
|>|>guessing some electrical decay in the display panel, since when new the
|>|>speedometer was within 2% of a GPS unit, but is now 10% off]
|>|>
|>|>    Replaced the stock Yuasa battery at two years. I now have two years
|>|>on the second battery and should hook it to the desulphation charger
|>|>(which will run about 90 minutes and then throw up its hands with "I
|>|>can't do anything to this battery")

 

Bob wrote:

Never ever do that. They have different rest voltages, different
discharge rates and different charge rates.


Heating on charge means wrong charge rate or a short. Good way to cause
it to explode.


A UPS will often have two batteries in series. Probably thats what you
are measuring unless you disconnected it. Also no load voltage is
meaningless.

Crossposting with questions like yours makes you come across as a TROLL.

Ian Singer

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wrote:

|>Bob wrote:
|>>     I put 2 12v/8amp batteries on my OPz (UPS) computer power backup
|>> system, one is AGM, and the other was the original 6 year old WET sla (old
|>> style) battery.
|>
|>Never ever do that. They have different rest voltages, different
|>discharge rates and different charge rates.
|>

    They aren't all that different, I have years of experience with
batts and chargers, but an AGM will gobble all you can throw at it and will
charge right at even 75% of the total Battery amps.....WET is a slow cell
wall drop desulfation......

    They aren't pristine batts, they are Keep alive floats with the
batteries leeching each other off on a little 14.4v .5amp APC UPS I
converted with extension leads out of the casing....

    AGM floats at 13.5++  WET SLA at some 13.3+ but 12.9v is still
considered a 100% charge. Auto chargers give less voltage for AGM/Gel as in
the 14.4 absorb +/- wet "standard", 13.7 Agm safe charge, then some
15-->16volt float pings, usually 15.2v at 1/2 hour interval for a good 8amp
M/Cycle battery.  

|>>     The  WET sla (old style) battery was hard to charge up and would
|>> overheat on a charger, so I put it on a trickle for 9 months.
|>
|>Heating on charge means wrong charge rate or a short. Good way to cause
|>it to explode.
|>
    6 year old Bad cell right, this heating battery is a sealed type so
it may be a bad cell....no way to check for sure.....but the autocharger
senses it too so it's mostly irreparable.

|>>
|>>     I disconnected the battery just now, waited a few hours and checked
|>> th 12v voltage on a good DVMeter. So what I'm reading now, is 23.1+ volts no
|>> load open circuit and climbing.......WTF did I do to get it to work like
|>> that.....the OPz (UPS) trickle charge has a desulfator algorithm??
|>
|>A UPS will often have two batteries in series. Probably thats what you
|>are measuring unless you disconnected it. Also no load voltage is
|>meaningless.
|>
    Nope, they are 12v in parallel just like the 12v system it is....no
load is not a true battery check.

|>Crossposting with questions like yours makes you come across as a TROLL.
|>
    I doubt it......