Posted by derch on June 1, 2010, 4:54 pm
Hey all. A round for the house... I am in the throws of installing a
new drive belt on my 2001 Roadking. Everything going fine until now.
I am following the manual step by step and now at the point of
installing the new belt. The manual says to remove the left side
passenger floorboard mount and bushing and to tap the pivot shaft out
the left side enough to create a gap suitable enough to install the
new belt. However, I have the shaft almost all the way out and still
have not enough room to slide the new belt in. Are there any tricks
that the experts can give that the author of the manual doesn't know
about? I made it this far and hate to hit this now. I wanna ride!!!
Should I just drop the entire swingarm or does that cause more work
later? Thanks all.
Posted by Snag on June 1, 2010, 5:32 pm
derch wrote:
> Hey all. A round for the house... I am in the throws of installing a
> new drive belt on my 2001 Roadking. Everything going fine until now.
> I am following the manual step by step and now at the point of
> installing the new belt. The manual says to remove the left side
> passenger floorboard mount and bushing and to tap the pivot shaft out
> the left side enough to create a gap suitable enough to install the
> new belt. However, I have the shaft almost all the way out and still
> have not enough room to slide the new belt in. Are there any tricks
> that the experts can give that the author of the manual doesn't know
> about? I made it this far and hate to hit this now. I wanna ride!!!
> Should I just drop the entire swingarm or does that cause more work
> later? Thanks all.
With the floorboard/rubbermount cup unbolted from the frame and the pivot
shaft pushed <<towards the right side of the bike>> into the cleve block ,
there should be enough room between the frame and swingarm for the belt to
slip thru . If you pull the other side too , be sure you support the
motor/tranny assembly . Don't know what your wrenchin' skill level is , but
those two cups are what attaches the back end of the motor/tranny to the
frame .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF
Posted by derch on June 1, 2010, 5:53 pm
> With the floorboard/rubbermount cup unbolted from the frame and the pivot
> shaft pushed <<towards the right side of the bike>> into the cleve block ,
> there should be enough room between the frame and swingarm for the belt to
> slip thru . If you pull the other side too , be sure you support the
> motor/tranny assembly . Don't know what your wrenchin' skill level is , but
> those two cups are what attaches the back end of the motor/tranny to the
> frame .
> --
> Snag
> "90 FLHTCU "Strider"
> '39 WLDD "PopCycle"
> BS 132/SENS/DOF
Thanks Snag. I am actually an MMI graduate but have not started
working anywhere yet so I consider myself a bit more than a novice. I
have supported the engine/tranny with another jack. I am just being
overly careful not to damage the belt. It seems that even with the
most space I can get, I will still need to force the belt through a
pretty tight space so I might be being too overly cautious. Is it
normal that I will still have to force the belt somewhat? Thanks.
Posted by Snag on June 1, 2010, 6:01 pm
derch wrote:
>>
>> With the floorboard/rubbermount cup unbolted from the frame and the
>> pivot shaft pushed <<towards the right side of the bike>> into the
>> cleve block , there should be enough room between the frame and
>> swingarm for the belt to slip thru . If you pull the other side too
>> , be sure you support the motor/tranny assembly . Don't know what
>> your wrenchin' skill level is , but those two cups are what attaches
>> the back end of the motor/tranny to the frame .
>>
>> --
>> Snag
>> "90 FLHTCU "Strider"
>> '39 WLDD "PopCycle"
>> BS 132/SENS/DOF
> Thanks Snag. I am actually an MMI graduate but have not started
> working anywhere yet so I consider myself a bit more than a novice. I
> have supported the engine/tranny with another jack. I am just being
> overly careful not to damage the belt. It seems that even with the
> most space I can get, I will still need to force the belt through a
> pretty tight space so I might be being too overly cautious. Is it
> normal that I will still have to force the belt somewhat? Thanks.
That I cannot answer , I've never done one . I only know what I do about the
rear mounts because I designed and fabricated a set of chromoly/aluminum
bronze bushings to replace my cleve blocks .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF
Posted by Big Ben on June 1, 2010, 9:36 pm
derch scribbled:
> Hey all. A round for the house... I am in the throws of installing a
> new drive belt on my 2001 Roadking.
whoops, thought this was gonna be a snowmobile thread....
> Are there any tricks
> that the experts can give that the author of the manual doesn't know
> about? I made it this far and hate to hit this now. I wanna ride!!!
since ya got the primary off a'ready, replace them pulleys with a set
of sprockets, ditch the belt and add a chain....
much mo' easy to stick a chain in there than a belt....an added side
benefit to this is you can run a little wider tire if ya wish....
yes, I know belts last longer, run quieter and smoother, and I still
don't give a fuck, I like chains....yes I've ridden belt bikes...I
like chains...
now if I could just figger why I bought a shaftie.....
--
Big Ben
BS266
the "sometimes I confuse the everlivin' shit outta myself" Slug
> new drive belt on my 2001 Roadking. Everything going fine until now.
> I am following the manual step by step and now at the point of
> installing the new belt. The manual says to remove the left side
> passenger floorboard mount and bushing and to tap the pivot shaft out
> the left side enough to create a gap suitable enough to install the
> new belt. However, I have the shaft almost all the way out and still
> have not enough room to slide the new belt in. Are there any tricks
> that the experts can give that the author of the manual doesn't know
> about? I made it this far and hate to hit this now. I wanna ride!!!
> Should I just drop the entire swingarm or does that cause more work
> later? Thanks all.