Posted by TL Mitchell on September 15, 2011, 6:50 pm
I've been wiring my passing lamps to work independent of the high/low beams
since my first bagger. First time I jockeyed some wires around in a loom
plug under the fairing, PITA, especially if you don't have the right tool to
pull the wire out of the Multilock connector.
Since then I've been running a jumper from the accessory switch power supply
wire to the Passing Lamp switch. In addition to not having the lamps go out
when you hit the high beams it might be a good thing someday to have some of
your lights on different circuits so you don't lose 'em all if you toast a
fuse.
In order to get to the wires under the fairing cap you have to pull the
ignition switch. On pre-'06 models this was easy, the switch pulled straight
out regardless of which position it was in. On more recent bikes the switch
has to be in the fork-lock position. In order to remove the fairing cap you
need to be able to move the forks. It's pretty easy to stick a screwdriver
down the hole and move the tumbler to unlock the forks. You better make sure
you don't move anything else in there or when you relock the forks to
reinstall the switch things won't line up. Which means you need the uhfishal
H-D Igniton Switch Alignment Tool. (don't ask how I know this) Everybody's
got one of those in the toolbox, right? Kent-Moore and Jim's want 100 bucks
or more for one of these handy dandy little items.
I found a guy that fabs a lot of stuff he's needed to work on his bikes and
sells 'em. Mostly wheel balancing setups for a variety of bikes and a lot of
specialized tools for BMWs. He also makes an alignment tool. 25 bucks
delivered!
http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm
If you have a Touring bike and do some of your own work this thing's cheap
enough you might want one of these in your toolbox. I ordered early Monday
morning and it was delivered today. Took me all of about 20 seconds to fix
my screwup with the proper tool.
112
Posted by Jinks on September 15, 2011, 7:43 pm
On Thu, 15 Sep 2011 18:50:36 -0400, "TL Mitchell"
>I've been wiring my passing lamps to work independent of the high/low beams
>since my first bagger. First time I jockeyed some wires around in a loom
>plug under the fairing, PITA, especially if you don't have the right tool to
>pull the wire out of the Multilock connector.
>Since then I've been running a jumper from the accessory switch power supply
>wire to the Passing Lamp switch. In addition to not having the lamps go out
>when you hit the high beams it might be a good thing someday to have some of
>your lights on different circuits so you don't lose 'em all if you toast a
>fuse.
>In order to get to the wires under the fairing cap you have to pull the
>ignition switch. On pre-'06 models this was easy, the switch pulled straight
>out regardless of which position it was in. On more recent bikes the switch
>has to be in the fork-lock position. In order to remove the fairing cap you
>need to be able to move the forks. It's pretty easy to stick a screwdriver
>down the hole and move the tumbler to unlock the forks. You better make sure
>you don't move anything else in there or when you relock the forks to
>reinstall the switch things won't line up. Which means you need the uhfishal
>H-D Igniton Switch Alignment Tool. (don't ask how I know this) Everybody's
>got one of those in the toolbox, right? Kent-Moore and Jim's want 100 bucks
>or more for one of these handy dandy little items.
>I found a guy that fabs a lot of stuff he's needed to work on his bikes and
>sells 'em. Mostly wheel balancing setups for a variety of bikes and a lot of
>specialized tools for BMWs. He also makes an alignment tool. 25 bucks
>delivered!
>http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm
>If you have a Touring bike and do some of your own work this thing's cheap
>enough you might want one of these in your toolbox. I ordered early Monday
>morning and it was delivered today. Took me all of about 20 seconds to fix
>my screwup with the proper tool.
>112
Or you could make one with a piece of copper tubing & some
tape like I did from a video posted on hdforums...........<shrug>
Butt the Marc Parnes unit is prolly better made.
Jinks ('86 FXRS, '07 FLTR)
#64
Remember, "No good deed goes unpunished"
Posted by TL Mitchell on September 15, 2011, 11:19 pm
> Or you could make one with a piece of copper tubing & some
> tape like I did from a video posted on hdforums...........<shrug>
> Butt the Marc Parnes unit is prolly better made.
There's a lot to be said for having a snazzy, well made tool.
112
Posted by big_piper on September 16, 2011, 12:30 pm
> There's a lot to be said for having a snazzy, well made tool.
> 112
Says the retired codger with a yardstick...
Wazzat for, stirring paint?
--
Piper
Posted by Invisible68 on September 17, 2011, 11:18 pm
>> Or you could make one with a piece of copper tubing & some
>> tape like I did from a video posted on hdforums...........<shrug>
>> Butt the Marc Parnes unit is prolly better made.
> There's a lot to be said for having a snazzy, well made tool.
> 112
I'm guessing the "snazzy, well made tool".... polishes up much nicer than a
"piece of copper tubing & some tape" though...
Invisible68
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>since my first bagger. First time I jockeyed some wires around in a loom
>plug under the fairing, PITA, especially if you don't have the right tool to
>pull the wire out of the Multilock connector.
>Since then I've been running a jumper from the accessory switch power supply
>wire to the Passing Lamp switch. In addition to not having the lamps go out
>when you hit the high beams it might be a good thing someday to have some of
>your lights on different circuits so you don't lose 'em all if you toast a
>fuse.
>In order to get to the wires under the fairing cap you have to pull the
>ignition switch. On pre-'06 models this was easy, the switch pulled straight
>out regardless of which position it was in. On more recent bikes the switch
>has to be in the fork-lock position. In order to remove the fairing cap you
>need to be able to move the forks. It's pretty easy to stick a screwdriver
>down the hole and move the tumbler to unlock the forks. You better make sure
>you don't move anything else in there or when you relock the forks to
>reinstall the switch things won't line up. Which means you need the uhfishal
>H-D Igniton Switch Alignment Tool. (don't ask how I know this) Everybody's
>got one of those in the toolbox, right? Kent-Moore and Jim's want 100 bucks
>or more for one of these handy dandy little items.
>I found a guy that fabs a lot of stuff he's needed to work on his bikes and
>sells 'em. Mostly wheel balancing setups for a variety of bikes and a lot of
>specialized tools for BMWs. He also makes an alignment tool. 25 bucks
>delivered!
>http://www.marcparnes.com/HarleyIgnitionSwitchTool.htm
>If you have a Touring bike and do some of your own work this thing's cheap
>enough you might want one of these in your toolbox. I ordered early Monday
>morning and it was delivered today. Took me all of about 20 seconds to fix
>my screwup with the proper tool.
>112