Rear cylinder base gasket leaking. Any quick / simple fixes?

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Posted by Clint Jensen on April 28, 2010, 9:13 pm
 
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Hello,

Drinks for everyone!!!

I have a 1990 FLHTC.  The cylinder base gasket on the rear cylinder is
leaking fairly badly.  It spews oil out and makes a mess of my leg and the
left saddle bag.  The front cylinder seems to be leak free.

I am about ready to go on a mini vacation with this bike, so, time is short.

Is there any quick fix for this or do I need to pull the cylinder off and
replace the gaskets?  Anything else I need to replace except the gaskets?

If I do the gasket replacement stuff, any particular brand or style (teflon,
steel, fiber, ...) should I be buying?

I will probably do this myself.  But, if I took to a shop, what do you think
would be a fair bill?

Also, the paint or whatever the factory puts on them is just about all gone
and they look like crap.  how do you repaint them without getting it on the
edges?  And, do you polish the edges or what to make them all shiney?  The
cylinder heads are an even worse shape as far as the paint being mostly
gone. I figure if I have the jugs and heads off, I might as well redo them
while they are on the bench.

Thanks,

CJ
==



Posted by Road Glidin' Don on April 29, 2010, 12:27 am
 


<checking to see if this was cross-posted>  Okay, good to go.


Thanks.

<snipperooo>


There's no "quick fix" I'm aware of, so it looks like you've got a bit
of work cut out for ya.  It's a bit of a job, but not too bad.  If it
helps, I have sort of a photo+audio log made of the first time I did
it at:

http://www.xidos.ca/Technical/RepairitYourself/EvolutionTopEndRebuild/tabid=
/98/Default.aspx
http://www.xidos.ca/Technical/RepairitYourself/EvolutionTopEndRebuildMiscel=
laneous/tabid/99/Default.aspx

Some head removal/installation instructions, if you need them, at:

http://www.xidos.ca/Technical/HarleySpecsStandardProcedures/EvoCylinderHead=
RemovalandInstallation/EvoCylinderHeadRemovalandInstallationP16/tabid/90/De=
fault.aspx

Off the top of my head, things you might want to consider the
following:

- consider replacing the cam bearing while you're at it and check the
cam for wear
- change the lifters if there's more than 80K miles on them
- maybe bring the heads in to a competent shop and have them refurbish
'em for ya (will cost a few bucks)
- get new rings and have the cylinders honed since they're now off
anyway (although I've replaced a base gasket before without doing so,
and no problems resulted)
- make sure to get all of the old base gasket material off the base of
the jugs (it can be really baked in hard)
- when tightening the head bolts, put a light film of oil between the
base of the bolt heads and the top of the head (if you don't, they
tend to bind to the metal underneath - possibly throwing off your
attempt to torque precisely)
- once the jugs are off, make sure to plug the holes into the case
with clean rags (wouldn't want stuff falling in there) and protect the
cylinders from clunking against the studs
- tag things like the rocker arms and push rods so's you'll put each
back in their original places when reassembling
- replace any of the studs holding the jugs on if they unscrew from
the block when loosening the heads (ah shit, they're cheap, maybe just
replace 'em all anyway)
- maybe check the oil pump for wear too

<snip>


Assuming you're talking about the black finish, right?  If so, I've
used a product called "Wet-Wet" (made by a company called "Purple
<something>".  It's quite amazing.  You spray it on and even the black
surfaces that were completely gray come back as completely black
again.  The effect seems to last too.  I did it to my motor last year
and was inspecting the bike the other day, expecting I'd have to do it
again.  No need to!

If you can find that stuff, another way is to spray some 'original'
Armour-All on those surfaces (if I recall correctly, it's best you do
it while the engine is hot).

Posted by nospam on April 29, 2010, 6:42 am
 

On Wed, 28 Apr 2010 21:13:47 -0400, "Clint Jensen"


yes there is a quick fix

seeing how there are dealers that won't work on a '90 anyhow and your
about to go on a vacation, you might as well just buy a new bike.....

leak fixed and should your bike break down on your trip you are sure
to find a dealer that will work on the new bike.......
and your helping the economy!

that'll be 8 bucks (paid to Snarl of course)

I could comment on the Alto clutch thread too, but that'll only put 8
more bucks in Snarl's pocket <sfsf>




Posted by Snag on April 29, 2010, 8:01 am
 

nospam@home.com wrote:

Hey , I knew you couldn't type , now it seem you can't read either . I'm the
one that asked about the Alto friction discs .
  So what gives , are they worth a shit ?
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF



Posted by Road Glidin' Don on April 29, 2010, 10:31 am
 

On Apr 29, 4:42 am, nos...@home.com wrote:

Good point!  (there's something really not right about that)


Oh yes indeedy.  My wife got a nail in her rear tire last week (only
2,500 miles on it).  Noticed it flat in the garage.  Call the dealer.
They send a truck over, pick the bike up and fix it for free!

I guess I'll just sell all my tools now...  Oops, forgot.  I still
have one bike with an Evo.




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