Replacing brake pads/tires

 

Set 'em up Shirley!

The job is done, everything works, but a couple of observations on what
is definitely not a very difficult job (but could turn into one). Much
of this is old hat to many of you, but this was the first time I did
this job on an Ultra Classic. Some of these notes may come in handy in
the future to somebody else.

When I replace brake pads I usually do it with the wheels still on the
bike. The usual: loosen the master cylinder cap, pull the caliper pins a
bit, install the inside pad, reseat the pins to get the inside pad into
proper position, pull the pins enough to then replace the outside pad. YMMV

This was the first time I decided to replace the pads with the wheels
removed. Ok, I think from now on I'll replace them with the wheels still
on the bike. This was on the rear of the Ultra Classic, and trying to
lift the wheel into the proper position to insert the axle/install
spacers/etc at the same time as trying to spread the new pads apart was
just a bit too much. The new pads didn't want to stay against the sides
of the calipers, instead trying to form themselves into a bastard
V-shape. No amount of jimmying with a putty knife was going to get those
pads apart to let the rotor slide in. There's not enough room to mount
the wheel then put the caliper over the rotor so it all needs to pretty
much come together at once. End result: take at least one (if not both)
of the pads out, mount the wheel, then put the pads in the caliper.
There are holes in the top of the caliper so you can kind of see what
the pad position is. Reminder to self: buy a 12-pt 1/4 inch socket for
the caliper pins. The box-end 12 pt wrench just takes too damn long.

The front wheel, I was actually able to get both rotors into the
calipers with the new pads flopping around. Not easy, but somehow I
managed to get the wheel mounted. There is a bit more play room with the
calipers, you can get the calipers positioned between the rotor and
fender enough to slide the axle in, then play with the pads to get the
calipers over the rotors. One note about the service manual: It makes it
seem as if you can remove the calipers completely off the rotor and let
them lay aside while you remove the wheel. I found I didn't have any
room at all to get them off. The size of the front fender limits how
much play you have in moving the calipers around. I knew this, but it
bears mentioning to anybody that hasn't done this before: You have to
remove at least one of the calipers in order to remove the wheel,
otherwise the tire binds between the calipers and you can't get the
wheel off. The manual says to take both off, but just one is enough.

A couple of notes on removing the rear wheel. This was my first time
taking it off the Ultra, I've done it before on the dyna, softail and
sporties. The rear uses an e-clip, not a cotter pin. I like it, to me
it's easier than the cotter pin and doesn't need replacing. The part
that pissed me off was finding a wrench big enough for the axle nut.
I've got a fairly extensive set of normal tools but nothing big enough
for that nut except a short-handled wide mouth crescent wrench. I had to
run over to my buddy Pete's shop and borrow his 1-7/16" open-end wrench.
Talking to my mech/tire guy (Paul) later I found that it actually takes
a 36mm. This size is different from the '02 Heritage and the sporties.
This was on my '07, YMMV depending on year of bike. Paul says he paid
125 bucks for a 36mm Snap-On wrench to do the job with, I have a wrench
on order for the future. 20 bucks delivered. Not a Snap-On, but
hopefully good enough to use once-twice a year. Somebody make a comment
here about when they went to that configuration of size/e-clip.

I haven't had a chance yet to really try out the Elite-3s, but Wednesday
I have to go to work in Emerville, and coming out of the Oakland hills
tunnels are some nasty rain grooves that always give me the willies, I'm
actually looking forward to seeing how the bike feels on them with this
new tread pattern. Also, doing a 1700 mile trip this weekend so should
get a bit of a feel for them by the time I get back.

If you stayed with me this long, have another round. Please feel free to
expand on this and add useful info. I already know I'm a dumbshit so
that doesn't need repeating.

Fins BS#221

 

DM wrote:

Thanks, I'll relay all of that to my wrench buddy when he changes mine.

 


Music to my wallet!


I don't have much to add, so I'll snip to where I do have soething to
add:



I used the wrench that came with the bike in the tool kit.  Kinda funky
wrench, and if I was changing tires every day I'd get a socket, but for
every once in a while it will work.

I also removed the right muffler as well as the left, so I could tap the
axle out easier.  Made fighting the caliper easier, as well.

Also, don't forget to hit your brakes a few times before you take off.  
Nothig like coming to that first stop and having your pedal go to the
floorboard as it takes up the slack you left there.

Not that I would know anything about that.

--
George BS235
owner, rmh VB&G

 

DM wrote:

I used the jack to raise/lower the bike.....made getting the wheels off a LOT
easier.


You don't have a set of 3/4 drive sockets going up to 2 1/2"'s???

I thought everyone had that kinda stuff laying around.

Oops...forgot that I spent about 20 years as a mechanic, so probably have an
unusually complete set of toys.....<sfsf>


I took mine around the block, haven't had a chance to ride it yet. Saddlebags
are still off it...waiting for it's 20K service before it hits the pavement.


I'll take an ice cold San Miguel, thanks........

 

Steve Irving wrote:

Compared to taking them off while on the jiffy stand? Nah, I know what
you mean. My pos jack isn't very precise when it comes to
raising/lowering, I turn the screw just a tiny bit on the bottle and it
wants to slam down to the floor. If I could more carefully control the
rate of descent I'd lower the bike onto the wheels, but for now I just
use wooden blocks to support the wheel while I'm lifting it up.

There doesn't seem to be room to get a socket over that axle nut with
the rear shock there, plus the handle needs to be closer to the wheel so
it can hang towards the floor where I can grip it and get the leverage I
need to loosen the nut. Socket wrench sticks out to far. Long extensions
cause me to lose the torque and control I want.

George, with the V&H 2-1s I have plenty of room to work around the exhaust.

Fins BS#221