Sputhe Engineering - Cylinder Studs

 It's 12 O'clock (here). Time for a round of lunchtime drinks for any
that's interested.

I've been doing _way_ too much struggling, agonyzing, and over
analyzing of the solutions to this whole pulled Evo cylinder stud
business. Time to take action!!

First, a quick relevant description of the stud and problem:
Stud and stud hole threads go to 1 inch depth  at 3/8-16 thread. The
stud goes in 13/16ths below the deck (3 threads above). The number 3
stud on the rear cylinder pulled out, stripping the threads from the
case.

The solutions so far that I've come up with are ( in order from worst
to possible best ):
1) Basic Helicoil
Pros: cheap and quick, come in longer lengths
Cons: may not hold, for long

2) Generic keyed, or other self locking thread replacement insert.
Pros: less prone to failure compared to helicoil
Cons: not readily available in greater than half inch length

3) Full Torque Lock-N-Stitch
Pros: full length threads, advanced anti-pull technology (look 'em up
on the web)
Cons: Expensive (very, compared to other solutions).

4) Sputhe Engineering's Extreme Duty replacement studs
Pros: Cheap, quick, and full length threads
Cons: ?? Don't know.... that's why I'm posting this.

Get yerself another before you respond,
Steve Paul
(aka Spanky)

 

Spanky wrote:


 If there is sufficient material to install a heli-coil it will be
stronger than the original threads. I've repaired threads in just about
every kind of material used in manufacturing in the auto industry. Heli
coils are a no bullshit repair. If you've seen a heli coil fail, it
wasn't installed properly. The fact that you have them as your worst
repair method suggest to me that maybe you should get someone that knows
what they are doing to fix your pulled stud. If your cases had been heli
coiled from the factory you wouldn't be having this problem.



 nobody #1

 nobody #1 wrote:

FWIW I agree about Helicoils.  Lots of folks swear by TimeSerts and
other kinds of thread replacement stuff and that's just fine.  I've used
Helicoils for that sort of repair for years and never had a problem with
them.  Started using them on air cooled VW cases with pulled studs in
the late 60's and they've never let me down.

I don't know that I'd go as far as Roger in denigrating your wrenching
abilities, but I've always been one to encourage people to get in over
their heads.  It's a way of learning what works and what doesn't and why.

Drill straight, be aware of your chips and have at it.
--
Spunky Hussein WhatCouldPossiblyGoWrong Tuna

 On Jul 7, 1:52 pm, spunky hussein tuna

Frankly, the main thing that's holding me back about timeserts and
helicoils, is that they come in half inch lengths only for a 3/8-16
thread repair. But, the factory saw fit to use an inch worth of
threads.

-Spanky
Thanks for the moral support. Much appreciated.

 Spanky wrote:


Um.....

Run two of them down the hole.......use a punch to knock the tab off the outer
one, and be sure ya get it outa the hole afterwards.

Had to do that on a bunch of 6.2 liter Chevy diesels in fire department command
vans years ago......when I was pulling the stock alternators off and
retrofitting them with BIGGER Leece-Neville models to keep up with all the
radios, lights, computers, etc.

Had to upsize from a long 3/8 bolt.......had to drill the brackets to fit the
bolts too.

Worked like a champ, never pulled the threads out......but the frikkin vibration
did snap a bolt off from time to time <sfsf>.