Posted by c on August 27, 2009, 12:01 pm
Next round's on me.
I'm new. Looking with drooling eyes at a 2010 road king classic.
Have a good handful of questions and I'm trying to buy ASAP (next 2-3
weeks) to get some break-in time before the weather sinks.
The simple one: I live about 15 minutes from one dealer and 20 minutes
from another (I know, right?) ... can I play them off of each other
when it comes time to negotiate? Or am I basically going to pay MSRP
and *maybe* get some help if I rack up a whole lot of options and add-
ons?
The hard one: If I'm spending all this money on a bike - even if it's
a touring bike - I want some pep, too. Torque. Juice. You know. Here
are my options, what would you do?
If I get the 103" stage 2 (as recommended by one of your own, a
certain guy with lots of respect over on rec.mc), that's covered by
warranty and that's very attractive to me since I'm doing this blind.
So I have no idea what the risks are that my bike will be a dud or how
much it would cost to repair something out-of-warranty. Otherwise...
I could go to an independent shop and have them juice me up. I hear
it'll be cheaper, but I'm also not looking for some 120" face-rocking
ride ... I want acceleration I can't complain about and I want to be
alright in 6th doing about 100, then having a little more left
underneath to pop out.
Modding the engine of a bike I haven't ridden is only on my mind
because I've heard too many "well, when I was 2-up and going uphill,
she was a dog" stories about the touring 96B's.
I understand the stage 2 kit has the 255 cams. I hear the woods cam
is the holy grail, and the andrews cams are fine runners-up. All I
know is what the internet tells me, and I'm having a hard time
figuring just which way to go.
http://tinyurl.com/mtuxfb is the $900 stage 2 kit.
Many thanks in advance for what I hope to be some real illumination.
One warning: good answers mean I have a few more questions before I
join up ;P
-c
Posted by c on August 27, 2009, 12:27 pm
> Next round's on me.
> I'm new. Looking with drooling eyes at a 2010 road king classic.
> Have a good handful of questions and I'm trying to buy ASAP (next 2-3
> weeks) to get some break-in time before the weather sinks.
> The simple one: I live about 15 minutes from one dealer and 20 minutes
> from another (I know, right?) ... can I play them off of each other
> when it comes time to negotiate? Or am I basically going to pay MSRP
> and *maybe* get some help if I rack up a whole lot of options and add-
> ons?
> The hard one: If I'm spending all this money on a bike - even if it's
> a touring bike - I want some pep, too. Torque. Juice. You know. Here
> are my options, what would you do?
> If I get the 103" stage 2 (as recommended by one of your own, a
> certain guy with lots of respect over on rec.mc), that's covered by
> warranty and that's very attractive to me since I'm doing this blind.
> So I have no idea what the risks are that my bike will be a dud or how
> much it would cost to repair something out-of-warranty. Otherwise...
> I could go to an independent shop and have them juice me up. I hear
> it'll be cheaper, but I'm also not looking for some 120" face-rocking
> ride ... I want acceleration I can't complain about and I want to be
> alright in 6th doing about 100, then having a little more left
> underneath to pop out.
> Modding the engine of a bike I haven't ridden is only on my mind
> because I've heard too many "well, when I was 2-up and going uphill,
> she was a dog" stories about the touring 96B's.
> I understand the stage 2 kit has the 255 cams. I hear the woods cam
> is the holy grail, and the andrews cams are fine runners-up. All I
> know is what the internet tells me, and I'm having a hard time
> figuring just which way to go.
> http://tinyurl.com/mtuxfb is the $900 stage 2 kit.
> Many thanks in advance for what I hope to be some real illumination.
> One warning: good answers mean I have a few more questions before I
> join up ;P
> -c
Oh, also --
I understand it would be wise to get a bigger-flow air intake &
perhaps SE touring mufflers (maybe also with supertrapp performance
baffles? read an article that sounded solid - http://tinyurl.com/kll4ct
)... other suggestions? Performance wise, pep at low/mid RPMs is most
important and not blowing up / burning up / losing engine life is my
other goal. Sound wise, I -of course- love the grumble and want that
harley heartbeat sound. Don't care about bark. Don't care what's
legal and not.
The article I linked just above mentions running a compression test on
a 103" stage 1 and picking a cam that would beef up the midrange after
figuring if it's safe. I was hoping to shortcut that whole
measurement since we're talking stock pieces and new parts all around.
Long story short: my "little" 20-something brother rides a carb'd
sporty 1200 with drag pipes (which he got for just $5k), and I only
have to beat HIM. No one else. Especially not those who know what's
really going on.
-c
Posted by nobody #1 on August 27, 2009, 12:45 pm
c wrote:
>> Next round's on me.
>>
>> I'm new. Looking with drooling eyes at a 2010 road king classic.
>> Have a good handful of questions and I'm trying to buy ASAP (next 2-3
>> weeks) to get some break-in time before the weather sinks.
>>
>> The simple one: I live about 15 minutes from one dealer and 20 minutes
>> from another (I know, right?) ... can I play them off of each other
>> when it comes time to negotiate? Or am I basically going to pay MSRP
>> and *maybe* get some help if I rack up a whole lot of options and add-
>> ons?
>>
>> The hard one: If I'm spending all this money on a bike - even if it's
>> a touring bike - I want some pep, too. Torque. Juice. You know. Here
>> are my options, what would you do?
>>
>> If I get the 103" stage 2 (as recommended by one of your own, a
>> certain guy with lots of respect over on rec.mc), that's covered by
>> warranty and that's very attractive to me since I'm doing this blind.
>> So I have no idea what the risks are that my bike will be a dud or how
>> much it would cost to repair something out-of-warranty. Otherwise...
>>
>> I could go to an independent shop and have them juice me up. I hear
>> it'll be cheaper, but I'm also not looking for some 120" face-rocking
>> ride ... I want acceleration I can't complain about and I want to be
>> alright in 6th doing about 100, then having a little more left
>> underneath to pop out.
>>
>> Modding the engine of a bike I haven't ridden is only on my mind
>> because I've heard too many "well, when I was 2-up and going uphill,
>> she was a dog" stories about the touring 96B's.
>>
>> I understand the stage 2 kit has the 255 cams. I hear the woods cam
>> is the holy grail, and the andrews cams are fine runners-up. All I
>> know is what the internet tells me, and I'm having a hard time
>> figuring just which way to go.
>>
>> http://tinyurl.com/mtuxfb is the $900 stage 2 kit.
>>
>> Many thanks in advance for what I hope to be some real illumination.
>> One warning: good answers mean I have a few more questions before I
>> join up ;P
>>
>> -c
>
> Oh, also --
>
> I understand it would be wise to get a bigger-flow air intake &
> perhaps SE touring mufflers (maybe also with supertrapp performance
> baffles? read an article that sounded solid - http://tinyurl.com/kll4ct
> )... other suggestions? Performance wise, pep at low/mid RPMs is most
> important and not blowing up / burning up / losing engine life is my
> other goal. Sound wise, I -of course- love the grumble and want that
> harley heartbeat sound. Don't care about bark. Don't care what's
> legal and not.
>
> The article I linked just above mentions running a compression test on
> a 103" stage 1 and picking a cam that would beef up the midrange after
> figuring if it's safe. I was hoping to shortcut that whole
> measurement since we're talking stock pieces and new parts all around.
>
> Long story short: my "little" 20-something brother rides a carb'd
> sporty 1200 with drag pipes (which he got for just $5k), and I only
> have to beat HIM. No one else. Especially not those who know what's
> really going on.
>
>
> -c
Technically you don't need to beat anyone. Buy it, do what you want
to it and ride. Something to keep in mind is that for the most part
anything you do will require reprogramming the ecm. You also might want
to know that a Road King Classic does not have the balanced engine on
it. I've got an '09 Ultra and it'll pull my fat ass up any hill I point
it at loaded down and with my fat old lady on it too. It's stock and
staying that way. All that performance bullshit is just a money trap to
me, the 88's certainly needed a little bit of help but the 96's run a
hell of a lot better afaic.
nobody #1
Posted by Banker@teranews.com on August 27, 2009, 12:58 pm
nobody #1 wrote:
>
>
>
> Technically you don't need to beat anyone. Buy it, do what you want to
> it and ride. Something to keep in mind is that for the most part
> anything you do will require reprogramming the ecm. You also might want
> to know that a Road King Classic does not have the balanced engine on
> it. I've got an '09 Ultra and it'll pull my fat ass up any hill I point
> it at loaded down and with my fat old lady on it too. It's stock and
> staying that way. All that performance bullshit is just a money trap to
> me, the 88's certainly needed a little bit of help but the 96's run a
> hell of a lot better afaic.
>
>
> nobody #1
All right Roger! Right on!
I dunno why folks wanna modify something before they even ride it.
Banker
Posted by Curly LaJolla on August 27, 2009, 5:04 pm
On Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:58:26 -0400, "Banker@teranews.com"
Banker sez:
> I dunno why folks wanna modify something before they even ride it.
I suspect the women can answer that question...
--
Curly LaJolla AH#117 BS#107
2004 FLHTPI Cop Bike
The party never ends!
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> I'm new. Looking with drooling eyes at a 2010 road king classic.
> Have a good handful of questions and I'm trying to buy ASAP (next 2-3
> weeks) to get some break-in time before the weather sinks.
> The simple one: I live about 15 minutes from one dealer and 20 minutes
> from another (I know, right?) ... can I play them off of each other
> when it comes time to negotiate? Or am I basically going to pay MSRP
> and *maybe* get some help if I rack up a whole lot of options and add-
> ons?
> The hard one: If I'm spending all this money on a bike - even if it's
> a touring bike - I want some pep, too. Torque. Juice. You know. Here
> are my options, what would you do?
> If I get the 103" stage 2 (as recommended by one of your own, a
> certain guy with lots of respect over on rec.mc), that's covered by
> warranty and that's very attractive to me since I'm doing this blind.
> So I have no idea what the risks are that my bike will be a dud or how
> much it would cost to repair something out-of-warranty. Otherwise...
> I could go to an independent shop and have them juice me up. I hear
> it'll be cheaper, but I'm also not looking for some 120" face-rocking
> ride ... I want acceleration I can't complain about and I want to be
> alright in 6th doing about 100, then having a little more left
> underneath to pop out.
> Modding the engine of a bike I haven't ridden is only on my mind
> because I've heard too many "well, when I was 2-up and going uphill,
> she was a dog" stories about the touring 96B's.
> I understand the stage 2 kit has the 255 cams. I hear the woods cam
> is the holy grail, and the andrews cams are fine runners-up. All I
> know is what the internet tells me, and I'm having a hard time
> figuring just which way to go.
> http://tinyurl.com/mtuxfb is the $900 stage 2 kit.
> Many thanks in advance for what I hope to be some real illumination.
> One warning: good answers mean I have a few more questions before I
> join up ;P
> -c