Electrical problem

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Subject Author Date
Electrical problem timeOday 08-11-2008
| |--> Re: Electrical problem The Older Gentl...08-11-2008
| ---> Re: Electrical problem Rob Kleinschmid...08-12-2008
| |--> Re: Electrical problem The Older Gentl...08-13-2008
| ---> Re: Electrical problem Rob Kleinschmid...08-13-2008
| |--> Re: Electrical problem Charlie Siegris...08-13-2008
| |--> Re: Electrical problem Charlie Siegris...08-13-2008
| ---> Re: Electrical problem Charlie Siegris...08-14-2008
| ---> Re: Electrical problem Rob Kleinschmid...08-14-2008
| |       `--> Re: Electrical problem Charlie Siegris...08-13-2008
|--> Re: Electrical problem Rob Kleinschmid...08-11-2008
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Posted by timeOday on August 11, 2008, 2:25 pm


I recently purchased a 2004 V-Strom 1000.

Mostly it runs fine, but exactly twice, it has lost all electrical power.

Both times, the bike was off. I turn the key. The bike briefly has
electric power (instruments come up, fuel pump starts), but only for
less than a second, and then goes COMPLETELY dead. Even the LCD clock
on the instrument panel goes off (normally it's on even when the bike is
off) and loses the time. But also both times, if I push-start the bike,
it runs fine for miles. This problem has only happened twice and I can't
reproduce it; normally the bike works fine.

The battery terminals aren't corroded and don't seem loose. The
battery still holds a charge; I didn't ride it for about 10 days
recently and it still started fine afterwards. Wiggling the key doesn't
help (ignition switch seems OK). No fuses have blown.

???

Posted by timeOday on August 11, 2008, 2:27 pm


timeOday wrote:
> I recently purchased a 2004 V-Strom 1000.
>
> Mostly it runs fine, but exactly twice, it has lost all electrical power.
>
> Both times, the bike was off. I turn the key. The bike briefly has
> electric power (instruments come up, fuel pump starts), but only for
> less than a second, and then goes COMPLETELY dead. Even the LCD clock
> on the instrument panel goes off (normally it's on even when the bike is
> off) and loses the time. But also both times, if I push-start the bike,
> it runs fine for miles. This problem has only happened twice and I can't
> reproduce it; normally the bike works fine.
>
> The battery terminals aren't corroded and don't seem loose. The
> battery still holds a charge; I didn't ride it for about 10 days
> recently and it still started fine afterwards. Wiggling the key doesn't
> help (ignition switch seems OK). No fuses have blown.
>
> ???

One possible clue, the first time the problem happened was at the
tail-end of a two week trip where I got rained on quite a bit, forded
some pretty deep streams, and dropped the bike in the dirt a number of
times.

Posted by . on August 11, 2008, 4:48 pm


> timeOday wrote:

> One possible clue, the first time the problem happened was at the
> tail-end of a two week trip where I got rained on quite a bit, forded
> some pretty deep streams, and dropped the bike in the dirt a number of
> times.

Check the grounding jumper strap that goes from engine to frame, it
might be corroded at the terminals.



Posted by Mark Olson on August 11, 2008, 2:35 pm


timeOday wrote:
> I recently purchased a 2004 V-Strom 1000.
>
> Mostly it runs fine, but exactly twice, it has lost all electrical power.
>
> Both times, the bike was off. I turn the key. The bike briefly has
> electric power (instruments come up, fuel pump starts), but only for
> less than a second, and then goes COMPLETELY dead. Even the LCD clock
> on the instrument panel goes off (normally it's on even when the bike is
> off) and loses the time. But also both times, if I push-start the bike,
> it runs fine for miles. This problem has only happened twice and I can't
> reproduce it; normally the bike works fine.
>
> The battery terminals aren't corroded and don't seem loose. The
> battery still holds a charge; I didn't ride it for about 10 days
> recently and it still started fine afterwards. Wiggling the key doesn't
> help (ignition switch seems OK). No fuses have blown.

The LCD clock going dead pretty much precludes the problem from being
in the ignition switch. If the main fuse wasn't carrying any current,
the bike could still run off the alternator output. Make sure the
battery cables are tight not just at the battery but where they connect
to the starter solenoid/main fuse and also where the negative cable
attaches to the frame.

I would start by checking the integrity of the main fuse socket and the
associated wiring. Wiggle stuff vigorously, it can be helpful to attach
an audible or visual indicator to some point in the wiring harness so you
know when you've started wiggling near the broken wire/bad connection
without having to be looking at the dashboard, etc.

It's also possible that the battery may have an intermittent internal
open circuit, it's rare but has been known to happen.

--
'07 FJR13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7

Posted by The Older Gentleman on August 11, 2008, 3:28 pm



> I would start by checking the integrity of the main fuse socket and the
> associated wiring. Wiggle stuff vigorously, it can be helpful to attach
> an audible or visual indicator to some point in the wiring harness so you
> know when you've started wiggling near the broken wire/bad connection
> without having to be looking at the dashboard, etc.

This is good advice.


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Yamaha XT600E Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

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