Flickering a starter switch...

 


    This might be a weird question but it may save your starting
gears.??

    A lot of ppl multi press the starter switch to start the
car/vehicle/scooter in a quick flicker of on/off....to get a better start
with less battery drain.

    After looking at the starter clutch start systems, I think that's
not so good of an idea....maybe I'm missing something and the somewhat
almost  redundant array of alternator/Starter gears/clutches and the
"floating" Idle gear.

    Maybe a single press is better in the long run the way I used to do
it, before I got into the flicker button flicker press.

Bob

 


Yes, Bob, your questions are invariably motorscooter weird.


Not likely.


You're the very first "ppl" that has ever suggested this, in my
experience.


Redundant? Ha!

If there are reduction gears in your starter system, they are there to
reduce the size of the starter by running the starter at higher RPM
and multiplying torque.

The idler gear is more gear reduction.

If you didn't have reduction gears, you'd need a humongous starter
instead of something smaller than a beer can.

Most motorcycles (1) have an over-running clutch that will disengage
completely or slip 99.999% so the the starter can spin until you take
your thumb off the button and still not be oversped by the crankshaft
as engine RPM increases rapidly on startup.

If it takes a little bit of power out of the battery, who gives a
rat's ass?

The charging system just replaces that "wasted power" in several miles
of operation.

If you can't afford to burn that amount of gasoline to charge up your
battery, you probably can't afford to ride...

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(1) Fuck you Neil Murray. Stick your exceptions up your ass.

 

On Fri, 9 Apr 2010 18:20:50 -0700 (PDT), Aham Brahmasmi

|>
|>If you didn't have reduction gears, you'd need a humongous starter
|>instead of something smaller than a beer can.
|>

    So many reduction gears. so much wear and tear that can be fixed
with more/less current......

|>Most motorcycles (1) have an over-running clutch that will disengage
|>completely or slip 99.999% so the the starter can spin until you take
|>your thumb off the button and still not be oversped by the crankshaft
|>as engine RPM increases rapidly on startup.
|>

    You mean the Clutch beneath the alternator/flywheel/driven gear
(Generator Rotor) with the Alternator attached to it....or the starter idle
gear assembly?

    Why is the Alternator directly attached to that Clutch rotor
assembly, and not the crankcase?.... if that clutch seizes, your 3 bolted
rotor will be thrashed.....although I don't think that has happened yet in
the same array of most motorvehicles...just a thought >:)


|>If it takes a little bit of power out of the battery, who gives a
|>rat's ass?

So I'd better change that habit!

    So that said, by your estimation, did I do any manage to damage to
my starter system's (over-running clutch's dis/engagement) by multi pressing
the electric starter????

Bob

 


He means the sprag clutch or similar in the starter motor.

An article that mentions the general design features of starter motors is
here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_motor

 

wrote:


My Nissan pickup truck's starter has an over-running sprag clutch on
the starter shaft like the one in the picture and some Yamaha Virago
starters have also had the sprag clutch built into the starter.

But the typical motorcycle starter clutch has been separate form the
starter since the early 1960's.

The ramp and roller part of that sort of starter clutch will be bolted
to the inner side of the alternator rotor and the rollers will engage
a round shape protruding from the idler gear.

When my first Frankenstein starter clutch jammed up, it actually broke
this large diameter part off the idler gear.

Motorcycle sprag clutches will have one side fastened to the rotor and
the other side is secured to the idler gear.