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Posted by John Johnson on April 4, 2007, 5:05 pm
> >
> >> Any suggestion on a cleaning fluid to use that will be hard on the
> >> gunk but not on the connector or wiring?
> >
> >
> > Aren't you listening?
> >
> > Technical Grade A Isopropyl alcohol (99.9% pure)... Not the shit you
> > buy at the drug store, rather the good stuff we use in the electronics
> > world to clean up after soldering... It's a hell of a solvent, won't
> > harm de-energized electronics, and dries without a residue...
> >
> > http://store.hvchemical.com/browse.cfm/4,102.htm
>
> The same thing is supposedly available for
> de-icing fuel lines, at your local auto parts.
>
> Hot, high-pressure water can do wonders,
> as well.... take the bike to the car wash!
>
> Your connectors may need to be retensed...
> silicone grease is often spec'ed for lamp
> base application, it's not supposed to be
> bad for electrical connections, is it?
WRT the earlier post about it being burned up, that's a problem if
you've got arcing in your connector (which is bad anyway, but does
happen sometimes). Petroleum-based dielectric greases don't decompose to
silica, but to carbon (which can affect your connection too, but that's
another story).
The upshot is that so long as there's a quality metal-metal contact, you
should be fine. Anything else is begging for problems. That's why I cut
out the alternator-wiring harnness connector on my VFR and soldered the
junction. I never open that connector, and it doesn't need to be removed
for any purpose short of alternator or main harness removal, so the
quick-connect does me no good (versus the quick connect on my
turn-signals, which is quite handy when I remove a fairing). The OP
might, depending on the connection, consider omitting the quick-connect
(though if it's that small, I doubt this is going to be a favored
solution).
--
Later,
John
johajohn@indianahoosiers.edu
'indiana' is a 'nolnn' and 'hoosier' is a 'solkk'. Indiana doesn't solkk.
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