Posted by Calgary on May 5, 2006, 8:49 am
wrote:
>Second, the major argument for this
>seems to be that I will drop/scratch/scuff/make other unplanned
>customizations to my first bike and I'll be really upset if I do that to a
>nice one. Well not really, I'll probably only get really upset if I
>damage it past the point of usability and then I'd be upset even if it was
>a beater to begin with. Also, I suspect that most ways to damage a bike
>past the point of usablility would damage me past the point of being able
>to use it and I think that would upset me enough to effectively mask any
>distress I feel over the damage to the bike.
See David Stueber's recent posts.
He is a new Rider and in less than one thousand miles he has damaged
his first brand new bike beyond his financial ability to repair it and
now has his second brand new bike.
In essence he has one functioning bike, one busted bike and two bike
payments.
My advice is find a friend who knows a little something about bikes
and look for a mid sized machine, used but not decrepit and learn to
ride on it. Take it slow and easy and after a year, if you still want
to ride sell the used machine and buy what you want. If you haven't
busted up the first bike you will likely not lose any money on it.
Not only are you likely to scratch up that first bike I can guarantee
you, your tastes in motorcycles will change in that first year.
--
Don
RCOS# 7
Riding Again!
2000 - Yamaha Venture Millenium Edition
Posted by Mike T. on May 5, 2006, 9:18 am
> 2. Don't start out buying a crotch rocket. That also seems quite
> reasonable.
It's not reasonable at all. Your bike will only go as fast as you ride it.
If you don't have the self-control to repsonsibly ride a crotch rocket
slowly until you get more experience on it, then you shouldn't be riding a
50cc scooter, either. Basically, buy the bike YOU want, don't worry about
how fast or slow it is.
> 3. Start out with a beater then get something good in a year or so. In
> general this is probably decent advice, but in my case I don't intend to
> adhere closely to it.
Neither did I. I think most people recommend that just because they are
jealous that they're not riding a nice shiny new ride. But it does make
sense, to a point, that getting off on a beater will hurt less
(psychologically) than dropping a newer bike. Still, it's silly to put too
much weight on the recommendations of other people. Buy the bike that is
right for you.
> Before I get to my questions here are my practical considerations and what
> I want to get out of this. I'm 6'0" tall and weigh about 220 pounds. I'd
> mostly use the bike to commute around town, but would like something I
> could take on the interstate without getting run over.
> too macho about that. Probably the biggest problem with my whole plan is
> that I don't have anywhere out of the weather to keep the the bike, but
Two suggestions: Suzuki V-Strom (DL650) with givi hard luggage, OR Suzuki
Burgman 650. Be sure to take the MSF class BEFORE you buy your bike though.
Before the MSF class, I was leaning toward a Suzuki C50. Not a bad bike,
but after the MSF course, I knew that I needed a TALL bike. (just like you
probably do). Also, bike covers are available and relatively cheap. Don't
worry about storing the bike in the weather.
> And now, the questions:
> 1. Should I take the MSF course as soon as possible--to find out as soon
> as possible if I can cut it--or wait until closer to when I actually buy a
> bike--so I don't forget what they teach me?
As I said, do NOT buy the bike until after the MSF course. Forget about
passing or failing. Just DOING the MSF course will give you a much better
idea of what to look for in a bike.
> 3. What makes and models should I be looking at?
> Price: $2k-$3k, not an absolute range, would like cheaper, but willing to
> spend spend something decent.
In that case, a used V-Strom 650 might be worth a look.
> Reliability: Would like it to last about 5 years, 25k-30k miles, in less
> than ideal conditions, without being a big maintenance hassle.
> Performance: A. Won't get me killed while I'm learning, B. Won't get me
> run over on the highway, C. Won't be too limiting once I have learned.
OK, you need to aim for about 650cc, no less but not much more, either.
Again, this is pointing at a V-Strom.
> 4. What will a decent set of all weather riding gear cost me, and who
> makes stuff that's a good value for the money?
Figure on about $600 total or more, to start. Get an armored motorcycle
jacket (ce armor in BACK, shoulders and elbows) with a removeable liner,
properly fit ($200-$300). You will also need raingear. If the jacket
and/or liner is waterproof, then just find waterproof pants, sized to go
over your pants. You will also need a decent full-face helmet, about $200
or less. Get one that has good ventilation in the CHIN area to help keep
the face shield from fogging up.
In colder weather, you can add layers under or over any of your other
motorcycle clothing. But this doesn't have to be motorcycle gear. Some
would recommend heated gloves for colder weather. Not a bad idea, there.
> 5. What are some good ideas for cargo? I need something waterproof and
> if I could lock it and leave it with the bike, that would be nice, but not
> essential.
Givi hard luggage. Or buy a bike with factory cargo area (Suzuki Burgman,
Kaw. Concours, for two examples)
> 6. Are there any other questions I should be asking?
Yeah, what bikes will a tall guy fit on? There aren't as many as you would
hope, unfortunately. But after the MSF course, you will KNOW what I mean .
. . especially as you are likely to be riding a 250 on the range with your
knees higher than your heart. (NOT good) -Dave
Posted by G Robert Mann on May 7, 2006, 8:11 am
On Fri, 05 May 2006 09:18:36 -0400, Mike T. wrote:
>>
>> 2. Don't start out buying a crotch rocket. That also seems quite
>> reasonable.
>
> It's not reasonable at all. Your bike will only go as fast as you ride it.
> If you don't have the self-control to repsonsibly ride a crotch rocket
> slowly until you get more experience on it, then you shouldn't be riding a
> 50cc scooter, either. Basically, buy the bike YOU want, don't worry about
> how fast or slow it is.
>
On the other hand, arguably the first step to being a good, safe rider is
getting a bike that is appropriate for my skills, ablities and intended
use. Buying a bike with capabilities that will just get me in trouble is
just asking for, well, trouble. I would suggest that NO novice
motorcyclist is up to controlling a high-powered bike. The only
difference is that some of them don't realize that. Therefore, the advice
I quoted, while sounding knee-jerk is actually a Good Idea.
G Robert Mann
Posted by Richard on May 5, 2006, 9:50 am
> Hi,
<snip>
> And now, the questions:
> 1. Should I take the MSF course as soon as possible--to find out as soon
> as possible if I can cut it--or wait until closer to when I actually buy a
> bike--so I don't forget what they teach me?
In any case, taking the class won't hurt you. I wish all drivers were
required to take and pass at the very least the permit test for motorcycle.
It will give you a feel for a small cruiser style bike (that's what they
have here, anyway) which might help with your buying decision.
> 2. The biggest issue for me on new vs. used is: New-nobody's screwed it up
> before I bought it and if they did I have a warranty; Used-if the last
> owner knew what they were doing it should be in good shape and I don't
> have to worry about a break-in period. So what would be more difficult,
> managing a break-in period while learning to ride, or fiding a used bike
> in good shape?
If you buy it to ride it, the break-in will be over before you know it.
Since you're just starting out, it will give you a reason to take it esay.
> 3. What makes and models should I be looking at?
> Price: $2k-$3k, not an absolute range, would like cheaper, but willing to
> spend spend something decent.
> Reliability: Would like it to last about 5 years, 25k-30k miles, in less
> than ideal conditions, without being a big maintenance hassle.
> Performance: A. Won't get me killed while I'm learning, B. Won't get me
> run over on the highway, C. Won't be too limiting once I have learned.
Whether you go with a cruiser or sport bike is a matter of taste.
I heeded the whole "Don't get a new bike, you'll drop it, get a small bike"
advice and immediately regretted it. I'm 5'11", 225lbs, I bought a used
Honda Shadow 750 in June and after 1800 miles I traded it in for a new
Kawasaki Vulcan 1500 in September. There was so much vibration on the 750
over 60mph that my hands were going numb. I now have over 3200 on the
Vulacan. That's a total of 5000 miles. I never dropped the first bike, I
haven't dropped the second (knock on wood). I've had three close calls.
That's my experience and, of course, your experience will be different.
> 4. What will a decent set of all weather riding gear cost me, and who
> makes stuff that's a good value for the money?
Here's a list and what I spent last year: helmet (~$80 HJC), boots ($120
Harley), jacket ($240 Wilson's), gloves ($50 ?), chaps ($140 Power Trip),
goggles ($35 ?).
> 5. What are some good ideas for cargo? I need something waterproof and
> if I could lock it and leave it with the bike, that would be nice, but not
> essential.
I just tie stuff down to the passenger seat with a bungee cargo net. If it
looks like rain, I put it in or under a plastic bag.
Posted by Sean on May 5, 2006, 12:01 pm
Richard wrote:
> There was so much vibration on the [Honda Shadow] 750
> over 60mph that my hands were going numb.
That's curious -- I demo'd an '05 Shadow 750 last year on the freeway
(up to 65 mph) and although the motor was revving a bit high
(kept wishing for a 6th gear) I didn't find the vibes uncomfortable,
I was more concerned about sustaining such high rpm's for extended
touring. The OP only plans on short hauls (150 miles max) although
of course he could easily change his mind with experience.
Sean_Q_
>seems to be that I will drop/scratch/scuff/make other unplanned
>customizations to my first bike and I'll be really upset if I do that to a
>nice one. Well not really, I'll probably only get really upset if I
>damage it past the point of usability and then I'd be upset even if it was
>a beater to begin with. Also, I suspect that most ways to damage a bike
>past the point of usablility would damage me past the point of being able
>to use it and I think that would upset me enough to effectively mask any
>distress I feel over the damage to the bike.