Posted by The Older Gentleman on April 26, 2011, 2:27 am
> What's
> the best approach to take without gumming it up even worse?
Carb Fairy approach: sling some snake oil in the tank and hope it works.
Practical approach: remove and strip carb, marinade everytthing in carb
cleaner, remove all jets, carefuly clean, poke through jets with strands
of copper wire, blow through everything with loads of HP air,
reassemble, and hope there's nthing still blocked.
Sure-fire approach: take it to be ultrasonically cleaned.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Kawasaki GPz750 Honda CB400F
Triumph Street Triple Suzuki TS250ERx2 GN250.
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
Posted by M.Badger on April 26, 2011, 6:57 am
sean_q wrote:
> As a warm-up exercise before starting my BMW and Dnepr
> projects I decided to build up my Honda XL125 bare frame
> into a useable bike. (Here in BC, under 401 cc is very
> low cost to insure) (and gas prices are rising).
<snip>
>
> There was not even an anemic frack. I had a can of ether with me
> but have been advised not to use it.
On what grounds?, it is good stuff for frankensteining an engine. At least a
few popfarts will let you know that it is mostly OK.
> Well the carb is the most
> obvious culprit. Jets full of varnish I should think. What's
> the best approach to take without gumming it up even worse?
>
In order of preference, if not ease. Also in order of likelyhood of success.
Strip and ultrasonically clean it.
Strip and chemical clean, using soft copper or brass wire, or preferably
nylon to furtle the holes.
Part strip and blast what you can with carb cleaner.
Remove the drain plug and drizzle carb cleaner down the fuel line. When it
starts coming through, nip up the drain plug and fill the float chamber with
carb cleaner. Now kick like a bastard -with the ignition off- playing with
the cold start and throttle to try and coax carb cleaner through.
Other ways of frankensteining include Zippo fuel in the carb mouth, Butane
lighter gas sprayed in whilst you try to start it. The last one is done
entirely at your own risk.
> Any advice appreciated
> SQ
Posted by TOG@Toil on April 26, 2011, 7:49 am
> Other ways of frankensteining include Zippo fuel in the carb mouth, Butane
> lighter gas sprayed in whilst you try to start it. The last one is done
> entirely at your own risk.
Oh, wow. If he tries this, I absolutely *insist* on the provision of a
webcam so we can all enjoy it :-)))
Posted by J. Clarke on April 26, 2011, 9:44 am
>
> sean_q wrote:
>
> > As a warm-up exercise before starting my BMW and Dnepr
> > projects I decided to build up my Honda XL125 bare frame
> > into a useable bike. (Here in BC, under 401 cc is very
> > low cost to insure) (and gas prices are rising).
>
> <snip>
>
> >
> > There was not even an anemic frack. I had a can of ether with me
> > but have been advised not to use it.
>
> On what grounds?, it is good stuff for frankensteining an engine. At least a
> few popfarts will let you know that it is mostly OK.
>
> > Well the carb is the most
> > obvious culprit. Jets full of varnish I should think. What's
> > the best approach to take without gumming it up even worse?
> >
>
> In order of preference, if not ease. Also in order of likelyhood of success.
>
> Strip and ultrasonically clean it.
Definitely the way to go if you've got access to a big enough cleaner.
> Strip and chemical clean, using soft copper or brass wire, or preferably
> nylon to furtle the holes.
Couple of words of advice
(1) try to figure out which way the taper on the holes goes (on cast
holes there will always be a taper, on reamed sometimes, on drilled
rarely) and furtle (if that word means what I think it means) from the
narrow end so that the crud doesn't get wedged.
(2) when you've got it clean, let it sit overnight then toss it back in
the bucket of cleaner and go through the process again.
The second step can save no end of frustration.
Also, in the US, Harbor Fright has for under 5 bucks a nice little set
of brushes intended for cleaning paint spray guns. They also work on
carburetors.
And a tip--next time you go to the dentist see if he or she can tell you
where to get a root canal file--mine just handed me one when I asked.
Tiny, tiny little tapered round file that can be very handy to have. Be
careful using it on metering orifices--it _is_ a file--but it will get
in all sorts of places and get crud that a wire won't touch.
> Part strip and blast what you can with carb cleaner.
> Remove the drain plug and drizzle carb cleaner down the fuel line. When it
> starts coming through, nip up the drain plug and fill the float chamber with
> carb cleaner. Now kick like a bastard -with the ignition off- playing with
> the cold start and throttle to try and coax carb cleaner through.
>
>
> Other ways of frankensteining include Zippo fuel in the carb mouth, Butane
> lighter gas sprayed in whilst you try to start it. The last one is done
> entirely at your own risk.
>
> > Any advice appreciated
> > SQ
Posted by M.Badger on April 26, 2011, 1:11 pm
J. Clarke wrote:
<snip>
>>
>> Strip and ultrasonically clean it.
>
> Definitely the way to go if you've got access to a big enough cleaner.
Carbs strip down quite small, so a cheapie one will do for most. Even with a
quad bank that you don't want to separate, commercial cleaning is
inexpensive.
>
>> Strip and chemical clean, using soft copper or brass wire, or preferably
>> nylon to furtle the holes.
>
> Couple of words of advice
>
> (1) try to figure out which way the taper on the holes goes (on cast
> holes there will always be a taper, on reamed sometimes, on drilled
> rarely) and furtle (if that word means what I think it means) from the
> narrow end so that the crud doesn't get wedged.
>
> (2) when you've got it clean, let it sit overnight then toss it back in
> the bucket of cleaner and go through the process again.
>
> The second step can save no end of frustration.
>
<snip>
Good additions.
> the best approach to take without gumming it up even worse?