Re: [help] Dirt bike won't start

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Posted by The Older Gentleman on April 26, 2011, 2:27 am
 
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Carb Fairy approach: sling some snake oil in the tank and hope it works.

Practical approach: remove and strip carb, marinade everytthing in carb
cleaner, remove all jets, carefuly clean, poke through jets with strands
of copper wire, blow through everything with loads of HP air,
reassemble, and hope there's nthing still blocked.

Sure-fire approach: take it to be ultrasonically cleaned.

--
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Triumph Street Triple Suzuki TS250ERx2  GN250.  
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

Posted by M.Badger on April 26, 2011, 6:57 am
 sean_q wrote:


<snip>


On what grounds?, it is good stuff for frankensteining an engine. At least a
few popfarts will let you know that it is mostly OK.


In order of preference, if not ease. Also in order of likelyhood of success.

Strip and ultrasonically clean it.
Strip and chemical clean, using soft copper or brass wire, or preferably
nylon to furtle the holes.
Part strip and blast what you can with carb cleaner.
Remove the drain plug and drizzle carb cleaner down the fuel line. When it
starts coming through, nip up the drain plug and fill the float chamber with
carb cleaner. Now kick like a bastard -with the ignition off- playing with
the cold start and throttle to try and coax carb cleaner through.


Other ways of frankensteining include Zippo fuel in the carb mouth, Butane
lighter gas sprayed in whilst you try to start it. The last one is done
entirely at your own risk.



Posted by TOG@Toil on April 26, 2011, 7:49 am
 

Oh, wow. If he tries this, I absolutely *insist* on the provision of a
webcam so we can all enjoy it :-)))

Posted by J. Clarke on April 26, 2011, 9:44 am
 
Definitely the way to go if you've got access to a big enough cleaner.


Couple of words of advice

(1) try to figure out which way the taper on the holes goes (on cast
holes there will always be a taper, on reamed sometimes, on drilled
rarely) and furtle (if that word means what I think it means) from the
narrow end so that the crud doesn't get wedged.

(2) when you've got it clean, let it sit overnight then toss it back in
the bucket of cleaner and go through the process again.

The second step can save no end of frustration.

Also, in the US, Harbor Fright has for under 5 bucks a nice little set
of brushes intended for cleaning paint spray guns.  They also work on
carburetors.

And a tip--next time you go to the dentist see if he or she can tell you
where to get a root canal file--mine just handed me one when I asked.  
Tiny, tiny little tapered round file that can be very handy to have.  Be
careful using it on metering orifices--it _is_ a file--but it will get
in all sorts of places and get crud that a wire won't touch.



Posted by M.Badger on April 26, 2011, 1:11 pm
 J. Clarke wrote:

<snip>


Carbs strip down quite small, so a cheapie one will do for most. Even with a
quad bank that you don't want to separate, commercial cleaning is
inexpensive.


<snip>

Good additions.

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