Posted by Datesfat Chicks on April 28, 2009, 11:49 pm
I'll be removing one of my mufflers to get at something else. At the point
where the pipe attaches to the engine, there are two bolts. I'll read the
shop manual, naturally, but are there any special tricks or cautions about
removing those (like Liquid Wrench)? I'd prefer not to break a bolt because
then it gets more complicated.
Thanks,
Datesfat
Posted by Rkleinsch1216128 on April 29, 2009, 12:17 am
wrote:
> I'll be removing one of my mufflers to get at something else. At the point
> where the pipe attaches to the engine, there are two bolts. I'll read the
> shop manual, naturally, but are there any special tricks or cautions about
> removing those (like Liquid Wrench)? I'd prefer not to break a bolt because
> then it gets more complicated.
AeroKroil is a product similar to liquid wrench, extremely
good at loosening exhaust system parts. Apply it a day
or so before wrenching. Limit the amount of force applied
to your wrenches.
Posted by Stephen Cowell on April 29, 2009, 1:01 am
> I'll be removing one of my mufflers to get at something else. At the
> point where the pipe attaches to the engine, there are two bolts. I'll
> read the shop manual, naturally, but are there any special tricks or
> cautions about removing those (like Liquid Wrench)? I'd prefer not to
> break a bolt because then it gets more complicated.
Yeah, soak 'em in 'knock'er loose' for a while.
Go back with NevRSeize.
If they get really
stubborn, work them back and forth, then
apply more penetrant.
If the studs start coming
out, just go with it... that's the best possible
outcome, anyway; you can put new studs in
and it's all good. Always replace the nuts,
at least... very cheap for what you get.
__
Steve
.
Posted by Datesfat Chicks on April 29, 2009, 3:30 pm
>> I'll be removing one of my mufflers to get at something else. At the
>> point where the pipe attaches to the engine, there are two bolts. I'll
>> read the shop manual, naturally, but are there any special tricks or
>> cautions about removing those (like Liquid Wrench)? I'd prefer not to
>> break a bolt because then it gets more complicated.
> Yeah, soak 'em in 'knock'er loose' for a while.
> Go back with NevRSeize.
> If they get really
> stubborn, work them back and forth, then
> apply more penetrant.
> If the studs start coming
> out, just go with it... that's the best possible
> outcome, anyway; you can put new studs in
> and it's all good. Always replace the nuts,
> at least... very cheap for what you get.
I'm assuming that NevRSeize is the same as copper grease.
I ordered nuts and studs, just in case. Nothing more awful than a 2-hour
job that turns into 2 weeks waiting for parts.
Question: Are new gaskets necessary, or can I reuse the old ones? (I
ordered new just in case, but don't know if I need to use them as a matter
of policy.)
Datesfat.
Posted by The Older Gentleman on April 29, 2009, 2:14 am
> I'll be removing one of my mufflers to get at something else. At the point
> where the pipe attaches to the engine, there are two bolts. I'll read the
> shop manual, naturally, but are there any special tricks or cautions about
> removing those (like Liquid Wrench)? I'd prefer not to break a bolt because
> then it gets more complicated.
>
Heat. Blowlamp. Lots of. Reassemble with copper grease.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F SH50 Triumph Street Triple
Honda XBR500 MZ TS250/1.
If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
> where the pipe attaches to the engine, there are two bolts. I'll read the
> shop manual, naturally, but are there any special tricks or cautions about
> removing those (like Liquid Wrench)? I'd prefer not to break a bolt because
> then it gets more complicated.