Posted by oasysco on March 24, 2008, 12:48 pm
> wrote:
> >we will be looking at the connections to the fuse
> >box.
> If nothing else works, clean the start button. Sometimes it helps.
We'll start with the fuse block; check the ignition switch; and prolly
clean the start button.
Greg
> --
> Jack
Posted by David T. Ashley on March 24, 2008, 4:25 pm
> What all others have said, plus possibly a dodgy contact in the ignition
> switch, since on virtually every bike I've fiddled with, the wiring for
> the headlight runs through the ignition switch.
If the problem is reproducible (sounds like it might be), you can narrow it
down (if you can get to the wiring), but just putting a voltmeter across the
suspected bad element.
For example, if the ignition switch is suspected bad and the headlight isn't
on, just put a meter across the relevant contacts in the ignition switch
(while the problem is occurring). If this is the problem, the voltage
reading will be approximately 12 volts. If this is not the problem, the
voltage reading will be approximately 0 volts.
Meter probes that hang onto wires are helpful.
I'm making the assumption that you have a modern digital meter with high
input impedance and where the case of the meter is plastic and insulated
from the inputs. (Just about any meter you buy nowadays meets that
description.)
Note that the approach I'm recommending will only work if there is only a
single fault. If there are two faults in the circuit, the test I'm
proposing won't be reliable.
If the circuit is simple and if you can get to the relevant connections
easily, you should be able to narrow it down ...
Dave.
Posted by oasysco on March 25, 2008, 5:21 am
> > What all others have said, plus possibly a dodgy contact in the ignition
> > switch, since on virtually every bike I've fiddled with, the wiring for
> > the headlight runs through the ignition switch.
> If the problem is reproducible (sounds like it might be), you can narrow it
> down (if you can get to the wiring), but just putting a voltmeter across the
> suspected bad element.
> For example, if the ignition switch is suspected bad and the headlight isn't
> on, just put a meter across the relevant contacts in the ignition switch
> (while the problem is occurring). If this is the problem, the voltage
> reading will be approximately 12 volts. If this is not the problem, the
> voltage reading will be approximately 0 volts.
> Meter probes that hang onto wires are helpful.
> I'm making the assumption that you have a modern digital meter with high
> input impedance and where the case of the meter is plastic and insulated
> from the inputs. (Just about any meter you buy nowadays meets that
> description.)
> Note that the approach I'm recommending will only work if there is only a
> single fault. If there are two faults in the circuit, the test I'm
> proposing won't be reliable.
> If the circuit is simple and if you can get to the relevant connections
> easily, you should be able to narrow it down ...
> Dave.
Dave,
I do have a DVMand if we can get to the relevant parts, I'll try that.
Thanks, Greg
Posted by kfvorwerk@gmail.com on March 25, 2008, 6:20 am
> 1991 Kawasaki ZX6R; 600cc 4 banger.
> The symptom is; start bike and 1/2 the time the headlight doesn't come
> on. Taillights; running lights, turn signals, brake lights - all work.
> Bike starts up fine, too. When the headlight comes on, the high and
> low beams do work.
> Doesn't make any dif if the bike is warm or cold; 50% of the time the
> headlight doesn't come on . you have to stop and restart.
> Ideas?
> Thanks,
> Greg
I just lurk here but every time I've had this happen it's the contacts
on the starter switch wearing out. You can often reproduce the
occurrence by jiggling the button up and down.
Karl
Posted by TOG@Toil on March 25, 2008, 11:20 am
> I just lurk here but every time I've had this happen it's the contacts
> on the starter switch wearing out. You can often reproduce the
> occurrence by jiggling the button up and down.
I was about to wonder aloud how on earth this could affect the
headlight, until I remembered that the US has had headlights wired
into the ignition for decades. They go off when you press the button,
right?
That's quite a good call.
Mind you, I think new model bikes in Europe have the same damnfool
system these days.
Muttermutter, bring back acetylene lighting muttermutter.
> >we will be looking at the connections to the fuse
> >box.
> If nothing else works, clean the start button. Sometimes it helps.