Posted by Calgary on September 25, 2009, 2:23 pm
I have two cheap Princess Auto (Power Fist) torque wrenches and I do
not trust either of them. One is a 1/4 inch (in lbs) and the other is
3/8 (ft lbs)
I don't use them very often but when I do, especially on softer metal
threads I cringe as I apply more pressure wondering if the damn things
will click or let me strip the threads. More often than not I trust my
gut and back off before I hear the click.
I am looking for something of a known quality that can be re
calibrated when required. The obvious choices for tools in Calgary,
Canadian Tire, Sears, House of Tools, etc, do not seem to offer much
of an upgrade over Princess Auto.
I found a place that seems to specialize in these tools CDI Torque.
http://www.cditorquecanada.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=cdi
Looking at what they offer, I am not sure which is better the dial or
click wrenches. My preference would be the dial. I like the idea of
being able to see the progression of torque being applied as opposed
to simply waiting for a click.
This is the series I am considering.
http://www.cditorquecanada.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=cdi&Category_Code=tw-dit-cse
or the Tiny version
http://tinyurl.com/yczpjlw
So is there a significant difference in the accuracy of the torque
wrenches offered by the mass merchandisers and the specialty store?
Worth spending the additional money.
Dial vs click?
I am not one for offering the virtual drinks like they do in the VB&G,
but any advice is appreciated.
Shit, this is Reeky. Let me rephrase that. Any useful advice is
appreciated.
--
Don
http://www.actualriders.ca/casualcruise2009.htm
2004 Road King
2000 Yamaha Venture MM Edition
Posted by The Older Gentleman on September 25, 2009, 2:26 pm
<snip>
> Looking at what they offer, I am not sure which is better the dial or
> click wrenches. My preference would be the dial. I like the idea of
> being able to see the progression of torque being applied as opposed
> to simply waiting for a click.
If I have to torque something to (for example) 30 ft/lbs, I tend to do
it to maybe 20-25 ft/lbs first, and then give it a second treatment at
the full 30 ft/lbs. Especially things like (for example) cylinder head
bolts. Sometimes I even work up in two or three stages.
As regards what brand - I'd have thought any quality brand would do. I
use an old Norbar, which has doen me well for three decades.
--
BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
Posted by Mark Olson on September 25, 2009, 2:53 pm
The Older Gentleman wrote:
>
> <snip>
>
>> Looking at what they offer, I am not sure which is better the dial or
>> click wrenches. My preference would be the dial. I like the idea of
>> being able to see the progression of torque being applied as opposed
>> to simply waiting for a click.
>
> If I have to torque something to (for example) 30 ft/lbs, I tend to do
> it to maybe 20-25 ft/lbs first, and then give it a second treatment at
> the full 30 ft/lbs. Especially things like (for example) cylinder head
> bolts. Sometimes I even work up in two or three stages.
>
> As regards what brand - I'd have thought any quality brand would do. I
> use an old Norbar, which has doen me well for three decades.
If you want something guaranteed not to result in applying a totally
erroneous torque value, pick a beam-style wrench every time. There is
nothing to get knocked out of kilter or worn, so they can't really go
out of adjustment, other than the pointer getting bent out of place.
Dial-type wrenches are more fragile compared to a beam type.
Will a cheap beam type torque wrench be as accurate as an expensive
torque wrench? No, but it will be much better than anyone's "calibrated
elbow". I have two beam types, a 1/2" for big stuff, and a 1/4" inch-lb.
The downside to the beam and dial types is they're useless unless you can
see the scale which isn't always an option. For that, I have a couple of
cheap micrometer-style (clicker) torque wrenches. I frequently test them
against the beam wrenches to make sure they are still working. And I
usually clamp the square drive in the vise and operate the wrench before
using it, to make sure the click is happening- sometimes at low torque
settings they give a very weak click that is hard to feel. When this
happens I loosen the adjuster and redo it until it feels right.
Posted by The Older Gentleman on September 25, 2009, 5:29 pm
> The Older Gentleman wrote:
> >
> > <snip>
> >
> >> Looking at what they offer, I am not sure which is better the dial or
> >> click wrenches. My preference would be the dial. I like the idea of
> >> being able to see the progression of torque being applied as opposed
> >> to simply waiting for a click.
> >
> > If I have to torque something to (for example) 30 ft/lbs, I tend to do
> > it to maybe 20-25 ft/lbs first, and then give it a second treatment at
> > the full 30 ft/lbs. Especially things like (for example) cylinder head
> > bolts. Sometimes I even work up in two or three stages.
> >
> > As regards what brand - I'd have thought any quality brand would do. I
> > use an old Norbar, which has doen me well for three decades.
>
> If you want something guaranteed not to result in applying a totally
> erroneous torque value, pick a beam-style wrench every time. There is
> nothing to get knocked out of kilter or worn, so they can't really go
> out of adjustment, other than the pointer getting bent out of place.
> Dial-type wrenches are more fragile compared to a beam type.
>
> Will a cheap beam type torque wrench be as accurate as an expensive
> torque wrench? No, but it will be much better than anyone's "calibrated
> elbow". I have two beam types, a 1/2" for big stuff, and a 1/4" inch-lb.
> The downside to the beam and dial types is they're useless unless you can
> see the scale which isn't always an option. For that, I have a couple of
> cheap micrometer-style (clicker) torque wrenches. I frequently test them
> against the beam wrenches to make sure they are still working. And I
> usually clamp the square drive in the vise and operate the wrench before
> using it, to make sure the click is happening- sometimes at low torque
> settings they give a very weak click that is hard to feel. When this
> happens I loosen the adjuster and redo it until it feels right.
That's all sound advice. I did say 'quality' click-type torque wrenches,
though. For cheap ones, as you say, beam types are much better.
--
BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
Posted by Snag on September 25, 2009, 11:26 pm
The Older Gentleman wrote:
>> The Older Gentleman wrote:
>>>
>>> <snip>
>>>
>>>> Looking at what they offer, I am not sure which is better the
>>>> dial or click wrenches. My preference would be the dial. I like
>>>> the idea of being able to see the progression of torque being
>>>> applied as opposed to simply waiting for a click.
>>>
>>> If I have to torque something to (for example) 30 ft/lbs, I tend to
>>> do it to maybe 20-25 ft/lbs first, and then give it a second
>>> treatment at the full 30 ft/lbs. Especially things like (for
>>> example) cylinder head bolts. Sometimes I even work up in two or
>>> three stages.
>>>
>>> As regards what brand - I'd have thought any quality brand would
>>> do. I use an old Norbar, which has doen me well for three decades.
>>
>> If you want something guaranteed not to result in applying a totally
>> erroneous torque value, pick a beam-style wrench every time. There
>> is nothing to get knocked out of kilter or worn, so they can't
>> really go out of adjustment, other than the pointer getting bent out
>> of place. Dial-type wrenches are more fragile compared to a beam
>> type.
>>
>> Will a cheap beam type torque wrench be as accurate as an expensive
>> torque wrench? No, but it will be much better than anyone's
>> "calibrated elbow". I have two beam types, a 1/2" for big stuff,
>> and a 1/4" inch-lb. The downside to the beam and dial types is
>> they're useless unless you can see the scale which isn't always an
>> option. For that, I have a couple of cheap micrometer-style
>> (clicker) torque wrenches. I frequently test them against the beam
>> wrenches to make sure they are still working. And I usually clamp
>> the square drive in the vise and operate the wrench before using it,
>> to make sure the click is happening- sometimes at low torque
>> settings they give a very weak click that is hard to feel. When this
>> happens I loosen the adjuster and redo it until it feels right.
> That's all sound advice. I did say 'quality' click-type torque
> wrenches, though. For cheap ones, as you say, beam types are much
> better.
> --
> BMW K1100LT & K100RS Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street
> Triple Suzuki TS250ER Damn, back to six bikes!
> Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
> chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
I have and use both types . Beam goes up to 150 for the big stuff . Also
have clickers in in/lb and ft/lb . To check one agianst another , wrap the
handle of the clicker in rags and clamp it in your vise - lightly . Find or
make a double female to couple the clicker to the beam , see if the beam
reads the preset value when it clicks .
Clickers are Craftsman , caught on sale for around 75 bucks each (several
years ago) . And damn well worth every penny .
--
Snag
"90 FLHTCU "Strider"
'39 WLDD "PopCycle"
BS 132/SENS/DOF
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> click wrenches. My preference would be the dial. I like the idea of
> being able to see the progression of torque being applied as opposed
> to simply waiting for a click.