Posted by Shaw on February 5, 2010, 12:23 am
Wow, what a thread. So.... I guess it's fair to say that no one here has
used the pusher type tool????
>> Anyone ever use a pusher type tool to remove/install the valve keepers in
>> a
>> DOHC engine? If so, which make of tool did you use? Thanks.
> The valve springs on a modern 16-valve engine are very weak, so I
> don't use a valve spring compressor.
> I just set the cylinder head, with all four valves in the combustion
> chamber, on top of a wadded up shop towel so the valves can't move.
> Then I place the valve springs over the valve stems.
> Rocking the springs toward me allows me to position the first keeper
> in the retainer.
> Then I place the other keeper on top of the upper spring retainer and
> push against the retainer with a large diameter deep well socket and
> rock the spring around until the keepers fall into place.
> (BTW, Neil Murray sucks. Literally.)
Posted by The Older Gentleman on February 5, 2010, 2:04 am
> Wow, what a thread. So.... I guess it's fair to say that no one here has
> used the pusher type tool????
>
Yes. I have. They're incredibly simple, and as long as you get one the
right size, you won't have a problem.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER GN250 Damn, back to six bikes!
Try Googling before asking a damn silly question.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
Posted by TOG@Toil on February 5, 2010, 8:38 am
<Snip>
> Are you *serious*?????
> Are you talking about a c-clamp type valve spring compressor like the
> one in the top half of the picture here?
> http://www.denniskirk.com/jsp/search/search.jsp?searchString=H28-706& ...
> The cylindrical black object in the lower half of the picture is what
> actually contacts the spring retainer, and you can use a deep well
> socket instead, so why spend $70 on something like that?
Quite. When you can buy a decent compressor for $25 or less[1], why
indeed?
> Some Japanese tool kits have a cheap sheetmetal spark plug wrench that
> can be used as a pusher if you stick a phillips screwdriver thru a
> hole in the end.
Use the correct tool. It's easier and safer, always. Once you've
compressed the springs, your hands are free, and you can even put down
the entire tool and head without worrying. If you want to risk skinned
knuckles by pressing down on the end of a tough spring set, feel free.
The great advantage of theproper tool is that it allows you to release
the pressure on the spring *gradually*, so no chance of suddenly
finding you didn't get the collets (no idea of the US terminology) in
place properly and seffering a 'pingfuckit' moment.
Now, would you like to explain to us all why you think modern engines
have weak valve springs, since this seems core to your whinging....?
You've dodged the issue time and again, and if you have a technical
explanation, it really ought to be aired.
[1] From memory, mine was less than £5, albeit three decades ago.
Posted by =?UTF-8?B?5bqc5a+6? on February 5, 2010, 10:10 am
On Feb 5, 5:38 am, "Four-eyed Juicy Fruit"
wrote:
> Quite. When you can buy a decent compressor for $25 or less[1], why
> indeed?
Tell it to the OP, asshole.
Unless the OP is your sock puppet...
> Use the correct tool. It's easier and safer, always. Once you've
> compressed the springs, your hands are free, and you can even put down
> the entire tool and head without worrying. If you want to risk skinned
> knuckles by pressing down on the end of a tough spring set, feel free.
Tell it to the OP, asshole.
> The great advantage of theproper tool is that it allows you to release
> the pressure on the spring *gradually*, so no chance of suddenly
> finding you didn't get the collets (no idea of the US terminology) in
> place properly and seffering a 'pingfuckit' moment.
Tell it to the OP, asshole.
> Now, would you like to explain to us all why you think modern engines
> have weak valve springs, since this seems core to your whinging....?
> You've dodged the issue time and again, and if you have a technical
> explanation, it really ought to be aired.
I have no intention of educating your assholiness about valve spring
rates, the inertia of valves, and spring frequecy.
> [1] From memory, mine was less than £5, albeit three decades ago.
WTFGAS?
Asshole.
Posted by TOG@Toil on February 5, 2010, 10:49 am
> > Now, would you like to explain to us all why you think modern engines
> > have weak valve springs, since this seems core to your whinging....?
> > You've dodged the issue time and again, and if you have a technical
> > explanation, it really ought to be aired.
> I have no intention of educating your assholiness about valve spring
> rates, the inertia of valves, and spring frequecy.
No, really, really, I'd like to know. You see, as rev limits rise, you
have to have stronger springs to haul the valves back before they
collide with the pistons.
Lighter valves help, too, of course.
And rev limits are now, typically, 30-40% higher than they were....
oh, maybe 20 years ago. And you're saying that the valve springs have
got *weaker*. I find this interesting, and would really like to know
how this is done. I mean, you mention inertia: surely *more* force is
required to overcome inertia at higher revs than at lower, so I'd be
fascinated to hear you explain the physics of this. I can't be the
only one eager to learn.
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>> a
>> DOHC engine? If so, which make of tool did you use? Thanks.
> The valve springs on a modern 16-valve engine are very weak, so I
> don't use a valve spring compressor.
> I just set the cylinder head, with all four valves in the combustion
> chamber, on top of a wadded up shop towel so the valves can't move.
> Then I place the valve springs over the valve stems.
> Rocking the springs toward me allows me to position the first keeper
> in the retainer.
> Then I place the other keeper on top of the upper spring retainer and
> push against the retainer with a large diameter deep well socket and
> rock the spring around until the keepers fall into place.
> (BTW, Neil Murray sucks. Literally.)