Clearing out an idle circuit the lazy way

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Posted by Mike W. on March 27, 2008, 12:47 pm
 
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Hello,

I have a couple of 99 KZ1000P cop bikes that until this winter I was
scrupulous about maintaining. In one of them, I left no gas that had not
been fuel stabilized. It started right up last night but wont idle.

question... Can I fix this chemically? There is NOTHIGN I hate more than
taking the carbs off these things. Will carb cleaner screw up things like
my float valve seals? Is there some fuel treatment that'll get it done
while I sit there and hold it open?

Your assistance will be greatly appreciated.

Mike


--
Mike W.
96 XR400
99 KZ1000P
70 CT70
71 KG 100 (Hodaka-powered)

Posted by Wudsracer on March 27, 2008, 1:22 pm
 *******************************************



*****************************************

Mike,
  Before dismantling the carbs, add a bunch (at least three times the
recommended amount) of Chemtool B-12 (the B-12 with the acetone, I
believe) in the tank of fresh fuel and ride it a bunch.  This ought to
help with your problem.  At least it is cheap, and won't hurt.

  Then, if needed, you can always take em off and soak the carb bodies
in Berryman carb dip.  Call me for any specific tips if it goes that
far. (although you have probably read my methods before, on rmd.)

  Load the KZ up and come down here. I know of a lot of really fun
back highways to take up several days of fun.  On top of that, while
you are here, I'll furnish you a dirt bike, and take you on some
delicious single track.

  Bring your cones, and give me some instruction on the KZP.  I think
I'd like that.


         Wudsracer/Jim Cook
          Smackover Racing
         '06 Gas Gas DE300
        '82 Husqvarna XC250
           Team LAGNAF
        

Posted by Mike W. on March 27, 2008, 10:04 pm
 On Thu, 27 Mar 2008 12:22:25 -0500, Wudsracer


JIM! Damn nice to hear from you! I got it cleared... poured some techron in
the tank and ran it for 15-20 min winding it out every now and then while
parked. Then I pulled into the street and wound it out hard up to 5th...
closed the throttle and started doing dirtbike downshifts, shocking the
idle circuit. Same deal going home... idled perfectly.


You have no idea how much I'd like that. I hate my job like I can't tell
you. Tues I was in the damn chair for 19 hours with no breaks. I'll get
down there some time. It's really high on my list. I saw a reference
someplace that Smackover (comes from "Sumac cover":) has a newspaper. Say
high to Maybelle for me a fuss a little. You know how she likes that:)


I'd be pleased too. But let's see if I stay with this. I have a mental
log-crossing I have to clear before I start that back up. We'll see.
Supposed to make instructor level this summer so I won't let it go without
a fight:)

Mike


Mike W.
96 XR400
99 KZ1000P
70 CT70
71 KG 100 (Hodaka-powered)

Posted by . on March 28, 2008, 1:17 pm
 wrote:


Berryman B9 carb dip is some nasty brown shit that smells like it came
out of a Porta-Potty.

It contains cresylic acid, and it would be good for cleaning up
suspension parts off of an old 1972 Torino that had set out
in the weeds for 30 years after being driven for 250,000 miles.

But I wouldn't use B9 on any motorcycle part, it's just the wrong
stuff.

Posted by . on March 27, 2008, 1:29 pm
 

You might try adding 4 or 5 ounces of Berryman B12 Choke and
Carburetor Cleaner to a full tank of gasoline and riding until the
carbs clean themselves out. GumOut or STP carb cleaners will work too,
but the reason I like B12 is you can get it in the non-aerosol can and
measure it precisely without spraying it out of the cup you're going
to pour into the gas tank.

B12 contains stuff like MEK and acetone and toluene, so keep it off
your paint.

It takes a while for carb cleaners to attack plastic and rubber parts
and I have found that rubber parts soften and swell up, but return to
their original sizes as the carb cleaner evaporates.

More severe port and jet clogging requires at least some disassembly.

As I recall, there were two type of idle mixture screws used on
KZ1000's with slide type carbs, and one type has the idle mixture
screw coming in from the side, while the other has the idle screw
coming up from below.

If you screw the idle mixture screw all the way in before removing it,
you can write down the number of turns so you can get back to the
original settings after removing the screws and spraying carb cleaner
into the hole to clean out the idle
port.

Also, find the pilot air screw and squirt carb cleaner through that
jet to clean out the idle mixture circuit.

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