wrote:
> On Aug 14, 11:53 pm, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk (The Older
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > And why have you morphed again?
> Because I have full permission from my ISP and from Google Groups to
> express myself as I please.
> http://vampster.com/images/gallery2/schwarze-sonne-wei%DF.jpg
So? Goatse you have to understnadn something...if you don't have my
permission then you can't post anywhere. I mean for crying out loud I
told you to NOT go to sturgis and you stayed hom like the little
cowardly pedo that you are. So, I'll make it real simple for you. Get
off of usenet...NOW boy. Or I'll quiet paying your mother and she'll
just have to do the donkey show for free from now on.
> Then put in a quality fuel system cleaner. In the states the
> prefered stuff is called SEAFOAM, not sure what is available where you
> live but whatever the guys at a marina use can't hurt.
SeaFoam is just about worthless for cleaning out motorcycle fuel
systems because it's just a light, straw-colored oil to free up seized
pistons from rusty cylinders and isopropyl alcohol that will absorb
water.
The hot mix for cleaning motorcycle fuel systems in the USA is
Berryman B-12 Choke and Carburetor Cleaner which is a powerful mixture
of methyl alcohol, toulene, xylene, and acetone which will cut right
through gum and varnish.
B-12 comes in liquid form and in an aerosol can for about $3.50 a
Wal*Mart.
> As for handling I'd check ALL the bushing the headstock bearing etc
> for excessive wear.
You can spent hours and hours looking for mechanical problems and
discover in the end it's just a matter of suspension setting and tire
pressure *adjustment*.
> wrote:
> > The hot mix for cleaning motorcycle fuel systems in the USA is
> > Berryman B-12 Choke and Carburetor Cleaner which is a powerful mixture
> > of methyl alcohol, toulene, xylene, and acetone which will cut right
> > through gum and varnish.
> In you infinate stupidity you ASSUME he lives in the states.
Nope. I was replying to YOUR assinine assertion that SeaFoam was a
good carb cleaner.
And I know *exactly* where to find ewe, goatse...
Firstly, thank you for all the replies. Hopefully these issues can be
fixed.
>But if you're running the engine on the choke to avoid fixing a dirty
>fuel system problem, whose fault is that?
I'm not running the bike on choke, I just said it didn't make a
difference. I think it's just being tempermetal when it hasn't run for
a while, but it's a relatively new issue. Maybe I'm not running it as
often as I used to.
>No, clean out the fuel system first. You can drain most of the
>gasoline out of the gas tank and remove the two little screws holding
>the fuel selector lever onto the
>automatic fuel petcock.
I think I'll give this a go as it will certainly do the bike some
good. I have cleaned out the carbs before but I haven't done anything
to the tank, filter or fuel hoses.
>If the fuel tank doesn't appear to have water, rust and other debris
>in it, you can try cleaning out the carburetors without dismantling
>them by adding about 4 ounces of CLEAR carburetor cleaner to a fuel
>tank of gas and riding until the engine begins to run better.
I'll give that a go before taking the carbs apart again. It's not so
much hastle taking carbs apart, just getting they in/out og the bike
due to the rubber etc. It's a biatch.
>A motorcycle is ALWAYS trying to fall over to one side or the other,
>and the front steering geometry is ALWAYS trying to push it back
>upright.
I am aware of this and it is not the problem. My bike used to be fine,
it was fine up to about 100mph (rarely take it faster) with no issues.
The issue I have is not just normal bike riding.
>You might just be feeling the difference between the center compound
>and the side compound as the motorcycle normally rocks a little from
>side to side.
This can't be the case because it occurs when riding in a straight
line as well as learnt over.
>This rocking is exaggerated with 16-inch wheels...
I am familiar with the bike when it was working better. True, it could
be caused by my recent change in tyres but it certainly doesn't feel
right.
>If that doesn't help you will either end up rebuilding the carbs or
>having it done.
Again, this has been done (although not recently, and it has sat for a
little while).
>As for handling I'd check ALL the bushing the headstock bearing etc
>for excessive wear.
During this summer I've done the front wheel bearings, rear wheel
bearings (inc sprocket), swingarm bearing and the linkage bushes. I
haven't replaced the cushdrive but it looks alright. I had a friend
have a quick look at the headstock bearing whilst I pushed down on the
seat and he said it was fine, but then I might go have a look for
myself (as it sounds like that might be the issue).
>Check everything again. Check also the head races. Check you've actually
>got the right size tyres fitted. Check the swingarm pivot hasn't been
>under-rightened so is loose. The 600R has 16" wheels fore and aft and
>does feel twitchy as stock.
I will be taking the bike to a garage soon to check that all the bolts
etc that were done up when the bearings/bushes were done are done up
to the correct torque. I'm not an expert but there doesn't seem to be
any play in the rear end.
>I think he said he replaced the swingarm bearings, which obviously
>could have a lot to do with the problem he is seeing if something
>wasn't done right.
See above.
Basicaly I'll take a look at the fuel system and the bearings and see
what I can do. I have been planning to sort out the shock and forks at
some point soon as they are probably knackered by now. Do you think a
knackered shock could effect the handling in this way.
Thanks again for the wisdom. I'll let you know how I get on.
Rabbit
> Gentleman) wrote:
> > And why have you morphed again?
> Because I have full permission from my ISP and from Google Groups to
> express myself as I please.
> http://vampster.com/images/gallery2/schwarze-sonne-wei%DF.jpg