Posted by ian field on August 20, 2010, 2:03 pm
>> I have alot experience
>>bleeding brakes but this is my first clutch and it has so far been a
>>complete failure.
> Bubbles in the clutch line are forced to go downhill to the bleeder screw
> on the
> slave cylinder. You can't pump fast enough to get them all down there,
> some
> will congregate at the highest point in the system, which is usually the
> banjo
> bolt at the master cylinder.
One trick is to use a large syringe to force fluid in at the bleed nipple so
the bubbles rise to the top like they want to.
Posted by Mark Olson on August 20, 2010, 2:08 pm
ian field wrote:
>>
>>> I have alot experience
>>> bleeding brakes but this is my first clutch and it has so far been a
>>> complete failure.
>> Bubbles in the clutch line are forced to go downhill to the bleeder screw
>> on the
>> slave cylinder. You can't pump fast enough to get them all down there,
>> some
>> will congregate at the highest point in the system, which is usually the
>> banjo
>> bolt at the master cylinder.
>
> One trick is to use a large syringe to force fluid in at the bleed nipple so
> the bubbles rise to the top like they want to.
I've tried that, but unless you already have something suitable molished, it's
far easier to simply crack the banjo bolt open and hold a rag over it like FM
said.
Posted by TOG@Toil on August 20, 2010, 11:49 am
> I am just about to tap out on this hydraulic clutch problem. Running
> great and I was just feeling that the engagement point was moving so
> that it was earlier than usual so I thought I would just bleed the
> system or adjust whatever needed to be adjusted. Bled, and bled and
> then bled some more. Never got the normal resistance back in the
> clutch lever and the clutch is not disengaging any more. Figured it
> had to be the master cylinder. Got another one, not new, on Ebay.
> Same deal. Bled and bled and more bleeding. Still no resistance on
> the clutch lever. I can see the slave cylinder moving ever so
> slightly. I am thinking that it is not moving enough but I have no
> idea why. I have been very careful in inspecting the slave cylinder
> to make sure it is not restricted and everything appears to be moving
> as it should. I have been extremely careful in reattaching the slave
> cylinder so that it is all the way 'on'. The clutch itself seems to
> be a very simple pin like thing sticking out of the clutch case. I
> cannot put any more fluid in there. I cannot see how there can be any
> air in the line. I have removed the line and inspected it very
> carefully to see if there are any leaks. I have alot experience
> bleeding brakes but this is my first clutch and it has so far been a
> complete failure.
> Any words of advice would be greatly appreciated.
I've just (like less than 24 hours ago) replaced the fluid in my
Ducati's clutch line.
If the system was working fine before you messed with it, then you're
the problem, not the master cylinder.
I've always found that bleeding is much easier if you pump the lever
half a dozen times before opening the bleed nipple. Pump lever rapidly
5-6 times, swiftly open nipple, just as swiftly close nipple, release
lever, pump half a dozen times, swiftly open... repeat.
Speed is the key. If you just pull the lever once, open and close the
lever, perhaps wait a few seconds to check the line, and repeat, then
any air that's in the upper part of the hose simply moves back up the
line. You pump the lever again once, and push it down, and while
you're dithering, the air bubbles rise again. And you'll never get
them out.
The alternative is to invest in one of those professional kits that
draws the new fluid in for you.
Posted by M.Badger on August 20, 2010, 6:26 pm
TOG@Toil wrote:
<Huge snip>
>
> Speed is the key. If you just pull the lever once, open and close the
> lever, perhaps wait a few seconds to check the line, and repeat, then
> any air that's in the upper part of the hose simply moves back up the
> line. You pump the lever again once, and push it down, and while
> you're dithering, the air bubbles rise again. And you'll never get
> them out.
>
> The alternative is to invest in one of those professional kits that
> draws the new fluid in for you.
Mmmmm. MityVac.
Minutes to bleed the entire brake system. Vacuum bleeding is the only way to
do the ABS on my Bandit.
Quick is good here too. Build up a heck of a vacuum. Enough to begin to
collapse the hose, then crack the bleed nipple. Having someone top up the
master cylinder for you is good. Alternatively, using a large syringe, force
fluid through the bleed nipple back to the M/C. Do it rapidly. Give those
damn bubble no chance!.
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>>bleeding brakes but this is my first clutch and it has so far been a
>>complete failure.
> Bubbles in the clutch line are forced to go downhill to the bleeder screw
> on the
> slave cylinder. You can't pump fast enough to get them all down there,
> some
> will congregate at the highest point in the system, which is usually the
> banjo
> bolt at the master cylinder.