Measuring Radiator Flow

Motorcycle Mechanics - Motorcycle Technical Discussion. 

Page 3 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >> Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
Measuring Radiator Flow Manjo 01-21-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by Manjo on February 9, 2008, 8:06 am
On Jan 24, 12:52=A0am, ottg...@hotmail.com wrote:
> I hate to be too simplistic, but I hope you're in Neutral when you're
> at a complete stop, if not, maybe the Clutch is dragging a bit to make
> it stall?
> Bg
>
>
>
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
>
> > > I mislead on 800 rpm. =A0I have the idle set at 1,000 rpm and as the
> > > outside temperature approaches 80 degrees F, the bike's idle speed
> > > decreases and the bike runs rough at stops and as the heat increases,
> > > the engine will stall. =A0I have never had a problem re-starting the
> > > bike. =A0When this happens in stop and go traffic, I'm especially
> > > careful to down shift so that at just before a full stop, I have run
> > > the bike in 1st gear for several yards. =A0This tends to reduce the
> > > stalling some. =A0This has led me to also consider the fuel system as
> > > the possible source of the stalling problem (vapor lock??).
>
> > That symptom has me really baffled. Normally my idle will
> > increase as the engine gets hot. I suppose vapor lock might
> > be worth checking for. I'd also wonder if you might be running
> > way too rich at idle, causing it to bog down. When it gets to
> > this state, you might shut it down and check the plug color.- Hide quote=
d text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I will check this shortly, although the symptoms only appears at
temperatures over 80 degrees F. I've taken the clutch apart several
times and I'm careful for undue wear and to torque everything to
spec. But I will go over it more carefully to be sure. Thanks.

Manjo

Posted by Ken Abrams on February 9, 2008, 11:12 am


> I've taken the clutch apart several
>times and I'm careful for undue wear and to torque everything to
>spec. But I will go over it more carefully to be sure. Thanks.

OK, so how many times are you going to take the clutch apart before you
realize that it is NOT the problem???

In addition to the already mentioned potential fuel system problems, you
could also have a vacuum leak that is showing up when "parts" expand as they
get hot. Pay particular attention to the boots between the carb(s) and the
engine intake.



Posted by Manjo on February 10, 2008, 11:54 am
>
> > I've taken the clutch apart several
> >times and I'm careful for undue wear and to torque everything to
> >spec. =A0But I will go over it more carefully to be sure. =A0Thanks.
>
> OK, so how many times are you going to take the clutch apart before you
> realize that it is NOT the problem???
>
> In addition to the already mentioned potential fuel system problems, you
> could also have a vacuum leak that is showing up when "parts" expand as th=
ey
> get hot. =A0Pay particular attention to the boots between the carb(s) and =
the
> engine intake.

Thanks. I'll be sure to check the boots, again.

Manjo

Posted by Rob Kleinschmidt on February 11, 2008, 12:16 am
>
>
> > > I've taken the clutch apart several
> > >times and I'm careful for undue wear and to torque everything to
> > >spec. =A0But I will go over it more carefully to be sure. =A0Thanks.
>
> > OK, so how many times are you going to take the clutch apart before you
> > realize that it is NOT the problem???
>
> > In addition to the already mentioned potential fuel system problems, you=

> > could also have a vacuum leak that is showing up when "parts" expand as =
they
> > get hot. =A0Pay particular attention to the boots between the carb(s) an=
d the
> > engine intake.
>
> Thanks. =A0I'll be sure to check the boots, again.

And just for laughs, check the compression in each
cylinder. You can spend lots of time fiddling with carbs
and ignition when the real problem is one cylinder
pumping way better than the other.

If one cylinder's pumping poorly and you try to compensate
for it with tuning, you can confuse yourself pretty thoroughly
and induce some very odd behavior.


Posted by Jack Hunt on January 23, 2008, 2:07 pm

>When I get the heads and cylinders off, I'm borrowing a bore gauge to
>check the cylinders for out-of-round that may be allowing oil to seep
>around the rings at high speed and burn-off on the piston crowns
>leaving the carbon build-up.

That would be easily checked with a compression or leak down test. Burning oil
is always accompanied with oil loss. If you're not losing oil, you're not
burning it. Spark plugs will also tell you if you're burning oil or not.

>I'm also going to ask the machine shop
>guys to check the heads/ valves just in case oil is leaking around the
>valve guides (I installed new valve seals last spring).

Does it smoke?

What kind of intake and exhaust modifications have you done? It sounds like
you're idling rich.

--
Jack

Page 3 of 5       < 1 2 3 > last >>
Similar ThreadsPosted
Simple gas flow problem July 16, 2007, 9:28 am
2001 Honda Shadow radiator steams after warming up March 15, 2008, 2:48 pm

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap