Newby riding in cooler weather clothing question. - Page 3

 

wrote:

I've got two basic sets of gear. Warm weather mesh
gear with a rainsuit and a Kilimanjaro jacket and
pants with liners.

If I'm wearing the Kilimanjaro jacket in warmer weather
with light clothes and no liner, I figure the extra space
is a plus because it allows more air circulation.

I'd really like to find gear good over a wider range, but
I don't really think it exists. I'll ride in weather ranging
from a little below freezing up to a little over 100 and
I'm not sure there's really a single set of gear that'll
handle that. There's some Rukka gear that looks like
it might, but it's more than a little bit pricey.

Another problem is that when it's down to freezing
gear that'll keep you warm at speed will overheat you
fast when you're at a stop. I figure gear should keep
you warm when you're not moving without counting on
the electrics, but maybe I need to beef up my charging
system and spring for an electric vest to go with the grips.

 


If your bike allows it, wind deflectors for the handgrips make
relatively low-powered heaters adequate:
http://www.zefox.net/~bob/mc/handheat/handguard/

The more open handguards used on dualsports help a little, but not
nearly as much.

bob

 

wrote:

Already got some OK handguards (BMW GS stock).

http://picasaweb.google.com/rob.kleinschmidt/DeathValley09#5353357525667525=
250

Problem is that with a stock 280 watt alternator I'd be pushing
it trying to run a vest and grips both. One thing I want to do is
swap over from a resistive to a PWM heat control on the grips,
but I suspect I really need a 400 watt charging system.

I can dress warmly enough, but really have to watch it or I'll
be sweating when I'm stopped. The morning that picture
was taken, I was really struggling to stay comfortable on
the way over Walker pass to Death Valley

 

Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:

adequate:http://www.zefox.net/~bob/mc/handheat/handguard/

If you're using a resistive control you're wasting up to 50%
of your current draw.

They are extremely inefficient. You need to upgrade the
controller regardless of what you do to the charging system.

have you done the math? list everything you have powered and
what the draw is and you'll know for sure. 40watts for the
grips, and 120 watts for the jacket, 110 watts for all the
lights. You're still charging your battery using everything
at 100%. Do you have more than this? I bet not.
One thing all bikes have from the factory is a weak link
form the charging system to the battery. You need to run a
single HEAVY gauge wire DIRECTLY from the regulator to the
battery.

 


Uhhh no, I don't. You're thinking perhaps of a permanent
magnet charging system with a rectifier/regulator combo.
And 280 watts is best case rating.