Re: Bike won't start after carb cleaning.

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Re: Bike won't start after carb cleaning. Nameless 1 04-09-2008
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Posted by Eat Dirt on April 26, 2008, 3:31 am
>
> Anyway, aside from the backfire, the engine is running incredibly
> smooth

As promised, here's an update in the event someone is curious as to
how I fixed the backfire issue.
Just now I finally got to put the pipes back on the bike as I had
decided to paint them, once I had them off the bike. On a site note
painting them with Temclad heat resistant flat black was a good move.
It looks so much better now.

Anyhow, the problem with the backfiring was due to air escaping from
where the pipe connects to the engine. This is an aftermarket pipe and
I couldn't just use a standard part from the many the local wrecker
had. So instead I had to become creative with muffler tape. Walmart
sells them for like $4. I also replaced the brass rings (washers) with
new ones ($5 for the pair). That's all it took. The muffler tape
provided just the right amount of sealing to make the whole thing work
well. No backfiring at all and I can't feel any air escaping. All I
can see is a bit of smoke (from the burning tape which is normal)
being pushed away as I revved the engine.

Thanks to all here for the help. Bike sounds incredibly smooth now.
Carbs are nice and clean, got the muffler issue resolved and now all
it needs is insurance and a plate. Somehow I have a feeling I'll be
enjoying this bike more than the person it was intended. What treat it
is to make turns with this light bike.

Posted by Stephan Rose on April 13, 2008, 11:10 pm
On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 10:49:42 -0700, Rick Cortese wrote:

> Eat Dirt wrote:
>
>>
> <snip>
>> folk know your bikes). One detail though: it backfires. For instance,
>> if I'm in second gear doing some 45 km/h (30 of them US measurement)
>> and let go the throttle, I get a nasty backfire, followed by several
>> smaller ones. Also happens while idling, if hitting some high revs and
>> letting go of the throttle. What can be done to rectify this? I know
>> I'm very close but not sure how to fine tune the thing. What could be
>> done next?
>
> Italian father<the Cortese part> Irish/German mother. This is my mother
> speaking "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
>
> Not specific to your bike but backfires were common to the point that
> Keihin developed a special carb that IIRC had a vacumm diaphram that
> would dump fuel into the engine on throttle rolloff to prevent backfire.
> I suspect you may still be a little lean but I don't know that I would
> tamper with it.
>
> If it were me I would check timing before touching the carbs again. Just
> accept the fact that you may have done it right with the carbs, at least
> for now.
>
> There is a really odd relationship between timing and gas/air mixture
> that I don't think is well described anywhere. It goes something like
> richer works with more retarded, advanced works with leaner. There's
> also, to me at least, the counter intuitive: More retarded =>
> overheating.
>
> Anyway, since the bike is a quarter century old there is no telling what
> happened since the last ice age. Someone may have tried to set the
> timing by seat of the pants. It is something you have to double check
> *before* fine tuning the carbs anyway. You could waste a week fiddling
> with the carbs only to reset the timing by 5 degrees and have to start
> with the carbs all over.

Man, the more I read this thread, the more I appreciate fuel injection!

--
Stephan
1986 Pontiac Fiero GT

君の事思い出す日なんてないのは
君の事忘れたときがないから

Posted by P.J.Berg on April 19, 2008, 11:41 am

>>
>>
>>
>> We are talking an idle mixture adjustment here. A pretty universally
>> accepted way to set that adjustment (at least initially) is to put it
>> at a
>> point where it IDLES BEST. That point may not be exactly where the
>> manual
>> recommends as a starting point but it is NOT likely to be off as much
>> as you
>> have it set now.
>
> Hate to admit but you're dead on. First off, I was mistaken - the
> mixture screw is on side of the carb closer to the engine, not the air
> box as I previously stated. This gave me the confidence to do as you
> suggested and turn the screws by as much as the manual states, as it
> likely IS the fuel screw. Result: bike runs great!
>
> Run it for over 15 min, often at high revs. Engine did not overheat,
> it starts fine after shutting it off, everything appears normal. Guess
> you guys do know your shit (reason why I posted here, as I know you
> folk know your bikes). One detail though: it backfires. For instance,
> if I'm in second gear doing some 45 km/h (30 of them US measurement)
> and let go the throttle, I get a nasty backfire, followed by several
> smaller ones. Also happens while idling, if hitting some high revs and
> letting go of the throttle. What can be done to rectify this? I know
> I'm very close but not sure how to fine tune the thing. What could be
> done next?
>
> One very happy and no longer discouraged 3x bike owner.

If you have an exhaust leak it is very prone to backfire the way you
described.

J.


--
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

Posted by Nameless 1 on April 12, 2008, 1:31 pm

> This is a typical CV carb and all the parts in mine are here,
> including the mixture screw with the exact parts (bolt, screw, washer,
> o'ring)http://www.oldmanhonda.com/MC/Rcarbs.html
>
> Is there a way to certify which mine is based on these pics?

Whenever I see an idle mixture screw that has a small washer and o-
ring on it, my assumption is that it is a GAS screw.


Posted by The Older Gentleman on April 12, 2008, 3:33 am

> P.S. You might want to be a little more careful about who you berate.

Krusty morphs again?


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

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