"Rick Cortese" wrote:
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> > Rick Cortese wrote:
> >
> >>Enough happened to convince me to give up on looking
> further,
> >>
> >>The cranking amperage was higher then my meter goes
> i.e. 10 amps.
> >
> >
> > What you need is a measurement across a shunt.
> >
> > I get a lot of mileage out of an old Sears engine analyzer
> from
> > eBay which includes a shunt and amp meter. Cost maybe $15.00
>
> I'll take this under consideration since it would be nice to
> have some
> numbers. I think what it will need to characterize it will go
> beyond the
> simple test set up I thought I could use originally. What it
> really
> needs is a chart recorder or some kind of data logging. I'll
> grant you
> after TDC the engine does freewheel a bit until the next
> compression
> stroke. The time average amp profile may even be the same, it
> is just
> that the peak amp draw exceeds the chargers ability to
> deliver. It would
> make for an interesting graph.
>
> The list of what I need to do it right is getting a little
> long. I'm
> starting to question if the results could be generally
> applied. For
> instance, same engine with a different flywheel will give
> different
> steady state current profiles because of the flywheel's
> momentum. Beyond
> you need more current to push a WOT past TDC then one with a
> closed
> throttle I don't think I would be able to conclude much.
>
> Kind of out of place in a motorcycle forum: Reminds me of a
> story from
> the '60s. Used to be Super Modified races in my neck of the
> woods.
> Friend of a friend spent what was then considered a record
> amount of
> money building a car. IIRC there were some restrictions on
> engine and
> carburetion but the track was next to an airfield<aviation
> fuel> so
> compression was one of things people played with. The guy had
> so much
> compression in the engine he needed to hook it up to two
> batteries and a
> DC arc welder to get it started!
>
> The first time he brought it to the track we were in the
> stands
> watching. The track had just been resurfaced that week with
> what must of
> been mashed up banana peels. He came out of the pits onto the
> track and
> skidded to the right, over corrected and skidded left, BANG
> hit the wall
> at the end of the first straight away and his day was over.
Hello, I’ve got an 82 CB650, same engine and carbs. First adjust those
valves or your going to burn a few of them. Easy to do (easier with
the Honda tool) they are under those 3 covers on the top, you probably
won’t even need new seals for the covers, The starting procdure for
the bike COLD is-- pull the choke all the way out and leave the
throttle alone. The choke rotates the throttle the correct amount for
you. Check to make sure the chokes are actually moving from full open
to full closed, the choke cables are a problem on these bikes. A 9v
draw when you turn the motor over is way too much, it would indicate a
bad starter to me (new or not) but check and clean all your
connections and grounds first. It may only have 10k miles but it’s 20
something years old! Another thing to check is the advance weights,
they are under the round cover on the right(as if your sitting on the
bike) end of the crank. If they are stuck out when hot, the timing
will be way to far advanced and the engine will drag as you indicate.
Easy way to check that would be to turn the kill switch to OFF when
the engine is hot and try to start the engine, if it turns over easily
you’ve narrowed the problem to the ignition timing--static or advance.
Stuck weights will also cause a cold starting problem but more likely
the vacuum petcock is to blame if it won’t start easy if you let the
bike sit for a week or so. Good luck, Frank
--
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