Stator CB750 DOHC

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Posted by lwatters38@gmail.com on August 17, 2008, 12:17 pm
 
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I have a 81 CB750 and I just purchased a new stator for it when I try
to get it in it is very tight and does not want to seat all the way am
I missing something is their some trick to getting it in all the way
or should I consider sending it back I purchased it from Dennis Kirk
it is made by Rick's Motorsport Electrics has anyone had this problem
before??????????????????????????????

Posted by paul c on August 17, 2008, 1:40 pm
 

lwatters38@gmail.com wrote:

I swapped one from one '82 cb750c to another, I don't remember any such
problem, but that was more than a year ago and I tend to forget details
pretty quickly.  What'd I do is carefully compare the the new and old
stators and if I couldn't see a difference, measure them side to side,
front to back and so forth.  Also find a parts explosion diagram to make
sure I had all parts, fasteners and washers pointing the right way.
Hopefully, there is no warpage of the case halves etc., if there were
I'd imagine the old stator might have distorted slightly too and its
shape might not compare to the new one.  Oh, does the old stator slide
in nicely?

Posted by lwatters38@gmail.com on August 17, 2008, 1:46 pm
 


Yea it goes in alittle better but still kind of tight

Posted by . on August 17, 2008, 2:29 pm
 

wrote:

It's possible you have the wrong rotor, but you'll have to do some
measuring.

Compare the internal taper of the old rotor to the new one. It would
help if you had a vernier caliper to measure the inside diameter of
the outer hole and the inner hole and the depth of the hole on both
old and new rotors.

Alternator rotors are mounted on the tapered stub end of the
crankshaft.

The taper is called a Morse taper. The taper of the shaft is about
half a degree different from the rotor so there is a very tight
interference fit once the parts are bolted together.

The Morse taper allows the rotor to be mounted to the end of the
crankshaft without using a Woodruff key.

Keys have been known to break and when they break, they chew up the
shaft.

Morse tapers are far from a perfect solution. They have their own way
of chewing up the end of the crankshaft as the rotor "walks" back and
forth during hard acceleration and deceleration.

Sometimes motorcycle manufacturers have trouble with the alternator
rotor slipping on the stub end of the crankshaft, so they change the
diameter of the stub, which means they have to get their suppliers to
change the rotor to fit the different sized crankshaft stub.

Good luck.


Posted by The Older Gentleman on August 17, 2008, 2:33 pm
 



He's replaced the *stator*, not the *rotor*.

<snip the rest of the irrelevance>


--
BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Yamaha XT600E  Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

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