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Posted by paul c on June 21, 2008, 4:01 pm
. wrote:
>
>> it seems that clearance is .08 mm with tolerances of plus .05 and
>> minus .02 mm. �
>
> .08 mm is 0.003152 inches. An American feeler gauge would work just
> fine.
>
> .13 mm is 0.005122 inches. Again, an American guage would work just
> fine.
>
> .06 mm is 0.002364 inches. That's a very tight valve clearance...
>
> You can futz and putz around with metric tolerances and waste a lot of
> time if you
> don't realize just how small the variations are. I use American
> guages, which are close enough for a reasonable individual to use.
>
>
>
Indeed, but I live in Canuckistan where some measures are metric and a
few are SAE or "standard". One can go crazy here (if one isn't already)
trying to find high tensile fasteners in metric because unlike oil, milk
and coca-cola, many of those come here from the USA. When buying tools,
it's even worse, for example if I want a socket set I wait until it's on
sale for half price, but it still costs me the full price in effect,
because there will two sets of sockets, one metric and one SAE. I give
away the SAE ones even though I have a Ford car. (I've had a few Fords
and as far as I'm concerned they're rough enough brand new that I'm not
hurting them much by using slightly off-size metrics on them - don't get
me started on Fords!)
I was in my twenties when we supposedly went metric, so I'm forced to
keep a few length, volume, weight, temperature, pressure et cetera
ratios in my head as I can recognize something that's a quarter-inch on
sight but never developed the same visual recognition of centimetres.
Seems to be something that only young minds are good at learning to do.
Gov't here is fond of regularly apologizing for all kinds of past
wrongs to various people, but they never said sorry to to me! Oh well,
I guess my theoretical advantage is that I always measure twice, still
cut twice because of crappy eyesight - as the carpenter I knows said, he
cut it three times and it was still too short!
Had a few laughs at a course I took where everybody else was much
younger and had mostly grown up with metric. We had to line up at the
tool crib for torque wrenches but some of the kids were working from a
manual that spec'd newton-metres and if all of those wrenches were out,
leaving only SAE, they'd wait until the next day. I kept telling them
to add a third, but most of them couldn't handle that in their heads.
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Posted by Ted Mittelstaedt on June 22, 2008, 2:37 am
>You can futz and putz around with metric tolerances and waste a lot of
>time if you
>don't realize just how small the variations are. I use American
>guages, which are close enough for a reasonable individual to use.
I use feeler gauges that have both the metric and SAE marked on them. ;-)
Ted
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Posted by . on June 22, 2008, 8:59 am
te:
> I use feeler gauges that have both the metric and SAE marked on them. ;-)
It's not a matter of converting between metric and SAE, Ted.
The simple fact is that the difference between a .08mm metric blade
and a .07mm blade is only 0.000394 inches.
That's less than four ten thousandths of an inch. Valves don't need to
be set that precisely.
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Posted by The Older Gentleman on June 21, 2008, 12:14 pm
> So now what? Do I go to the trouble of taking everything apart just to
> get some
> shim measurements then putting it all back together, waiting a week, then
> taking it
> all apart again?
Its not a matter of taking it all apart. Just whip off the cambox cover,
measure the clearances, and see. If it needs nothing, fine, and if it
needs a shim or two changing it's not exactly a big job to replace the
cambox cover and petrol tank.
--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50 Yamaha XT600E
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."
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Posted by Ted Mittelstaedt on June 21, 2008, 1:29 pm
>
> > So now what? Do I go to the trouble of taking everything apart just to
> > get some
> > shim measurements then putting it all back together, waiting a week,
then
> > taking it
> > all apart again?
>
> Its not a matter of taking it all apart. Just whip off the cambox cover,
> measure the clearances, and see. If it needs nothing, fine, and if it
> needs a shim or two changing it's not exactly a big job to replace the
> cambox cover and petrol tank.
>
Just curious how do you normally keep the rubber gasket in it's channel
for the minute or so your putting the cover back down? I was figuring
just a few blobs of heavy grease. (or I could turn the engine upside
down - just kidding)
I know it's not that big of a job to do - although I don't have the
spring compressor tool on hand, and I had to order it so it will be
another week before that comes in (unbelievably, none of the
dealers here had them in stock even though we have FIVE that
are Motion-Pro dealers) since I'm unwilling to jam a screwdriver
down there.
It's more the principle of the thing - it just seems like it is something to
where I should be able to just pop the cover, and if a shim is needed
ride the other bike a couple miles to a bike shop where they would have
a box of new and used shims and could just fish out the one I need,
take mine and a few bucks, and I'm off and running.
I guess if I had a nice NEW bike then it would not be a problem since
they use different tools and different shims. :-(
Ted
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