Suggestion on valve shims
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Subject Author Date
Suggestion on valve shims Ted Mittelstaedt 06-21-2008
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Posted by The Older Gentleman on June 21, 2008, 2:34 pm

> Just curious how do you normally keep the rubber gasket in it's channel
> for the minute or so your putting the cover back down? I was figuring
> just a few blobs of heavy grease. (or I could turn the engine upside
> down - just kidding)

Yes, grease is what I've used in the past. Works a treat.
>
> I know it's not that big of a job to do - although I don't have the
> spring compressor tool on hand, and I had to order it so it will be
> another week before that comes in (unbelievably, none of the
> dealers here had them in stock even though we have FIVE that
> are Motion-Pro dealers) since I'm unwilling to jam a screwdriver
> down there.

Last time I faffed around, I found a C-spanner that I used for adjusting
shocks worked perfectly.

Alternatively, you can just treat it like an air-cooled Kawasaki 650/750
and displace the cams.


--
BMW K1100LT Ducati 750SS Honda CB400F, SL125 & SH50 Yamaha XT600E
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

Posted by . on June 21, 2008, 2:34 pm
te:

> Just curious how do you normally keep the rubber gasket in it's channel
> for the minute or so your putting the cover back down? =EF=BF=BDI was fig=
uring
> just a few blobs of heavy grease. =EF=BF=BD(or I could turn the engine up=
side
> down - just kidding)

Last time I adjusted the valves on my GSXR, the valve cover gasket
slipped and leaked oil down the front of the cylinder head.

That was when I realized why Suzuki glued the rubber valve cover
gasket in place with a grey rubber cement resembling Yamaha Bond.

So, I degreased the valve cover and the rubber gasket and then glued
the gasket in place with silicone rubber sealer.


Posted by Brady T on June 23, 2008, 9:44 am

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On the subject of obtaining valve shims, it is also possible to have
existing shims modified at a machine shop with a machine called a
surface grinder. The shim is held down on a magnetic base as a special
grinding wheel passes over it, somewhat like a radial arm saw. As
previously discussed, valve clearances usually get smaller over time and
require thinner shims, so this method works fine as long as your
measurements are right. Personal experience indicates that re-ground
shims work as well as any other.


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Posted by . on June 23, 2008, 10:10 am
On Jun 23, 6:44=EF=BF=BDam, BradenT...@webtv.net (Brady T) wrote:
> On the subject of obtaining valve shims, it is also possible to have
> existing shims modified at a machine shop with a machine called a
> surface grinder. =EF=BF=BDThe shim is held down on a magnetic base as a s=
pecial
> grinding wheel passes over it, somewhat like a radial arm saw.

First, find a friendly machinist that will agree to grind your shims
down for less $$$ than new shims would cost. There are some old timers
who do work like that more as a hobby than a money maker.

Good luck.

I installed a set of reground Iskenderian camshafts in my Jaguar
engine back in the mid-1960's.

Iskenderian was famous for his relationship with the now-defunct Ascot
Park which
produced famous flat track racers like Kenny Roberts Sr.

In order to get a high lift cam, Iskenderian's cam grinder would grind
material off the heel of the cam and then re-harden it.

This meant that the standard range of original equipment shims were
too thin.

The box contained a bunch of shim blanks that had been punched out of
steel plate, so I called up Iskenderian and asked what I was supposed
to do with them.

They said that I should take them to a machine shop and have them
surface ground to the required dimension.

I asked, "Well, YOU sold me the cams, how about if YOU surface grind
them for me?"

The guy on the phone said that they didn't like to "tie up a machinist
all day" surface grinding shims, but they grudgingly agreed to grind
them.

Posted by Paul Barrett on June 28, 2008, 1:20 am
I've also got a 1980 CB750. I once resorted to grinding down a shim myself,
by laying a sheet of sandpaper on the workbench, then using a holder I made
from a wood block, and rubbing the shim around on the bench, checking from
time to time with a caliper. Takes forever, and I made sure to put the now
less slick side down rather than against the cam.
Or maybe you'll get lucky and find that some are too loose and some are too
tight and they can be swapped.
I've been told that some repair shops will supposedly even swap one size for
another, but I've yet to find one that will.



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