Posted by FR on June 1, 2008, 11:37 am
Has anyone tried or had experience with either of these products?
Are they comperable? I have used Kreem in the past. But never again.
I am hoping for a harder more durable long term fix.
Bets regards,
frp
Posted by Mark Olson on June 1, 2008, 2:26 pm
FR wrote:
> Has anyone tried or had experience with either of these products?
>
> Are they comperable? I have used Kreem in the past. But never again.
>
> I am hoping for a harder more durable long term fix.
I have never used POR-15 but I have used Kreem more than once. I
used KBS on the last tank I sealed. KBS seems extremely tough,
where I spilled it on my rollaround cabinet, nothing has taken it
off, so far. For best results with any tank sealant, you still
have to do all the normal de-rusting and cleaning steps. You also
have to rig up some sort of blower to make sure the coating dries
completely (3-4 days is recommended!) before you use it.
I would use KBS again.
--
'07 FJ13AW '99 EX250-F13
OMF #7
Posted by Pip Luscher on June 1, 2008, 4:55 pm
>Has anyone tried or had experience with either of these products?
>Are they comperable? I have used Kreem in the past. But never again.
>I am hoping for a harder more durable long term fix.
>Bets regards,
I haven't but a mate has recently used POR 15. So far, so good. Hard
work (or just good exercise) shaking the tank for the recommended
time, apparently.
--
-Pip
Posted by CBXXX on June 2, 2008, 9:33 am
I have done 3 tanks with Por-15.Two Kawasaki Concours and 1 CBX tank.The
MAIN thing with Por-15 is DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY !
between steps.Take your time doing each step to make sure you'll get a
good bond on the sealer.The sealer WILL seal small pin hole leaks.
DO NOT GET THE SEALER WHERE YOU DON'T WANT IT! I use a pistol
style hair dryer that I taped a toilet paper roll to the
gun end.This allows the dryer to sit on an angle and dry the tank.If you
try to put the nozzle straight into the tank,the dryer will shut off as
it will over heat.I probably over do the drying (a day each between
steps) but Por-15 says 1 drop of water will make the sealant
ineffective.YOU CAN'T STATIC DRY A TANK NO MATTER HOW LONG YOU LEAVE IT
SIT!
DRY DRY DRY DRY DR DRY DRY between steps! I didn't think 1 pint
was enough for the
7 1/2 gallon Concours tank (IT WAS) so I ordered the quart.Had A LOT
left over.I use a steel wood stove that had slight rust on the top to
heat my house.Didn't prep it just used a cloth to wipe the rust off and
used the sealer to coat the top of the stove.It has been through 5
heating seasons and is like brand new. I realize that's not the regular
use but hey it worked.
If it dries on anything you WON'T get it off without destroying
whatever it's on.
Don't forget to DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY between steps. I have NEVER
heard of anyone having the Por-15 peel off (Don't know how
it could) so it's MUCH BETTER than kreem.To many horror stories about
kreem.
Posted by Rob Kleinschmidt on June 2, 2008, 2:04 pm
On Jun 2, 6:33 am, CB...@webtv.net wrote:
> Don't forget to DRY DRY DRY DRY DRY between steps. I have NEVER
> heard of anyone having the Por-15 peel off (Don't know how
> it could) so it's MUCH BETTER than kreem.To many horror stories about
> kreem.
IIRC, I used a hunk of sink drain fastened to the end
of my heat gun to dry the tank. This arrangement
kept the heat gun back from the flow of hot air which
vented out of the tank around the sides of the pipe.
I used 1/2" sheet metal screws in the tank during
the phosphoric acid shaking and cleaning step.
>
> Are they comperable? I have used Kreem in the past. But never again.
>
> I am hoping for a harder more durable long term fix.