Posted by BigBen on April 1, 2005, 12:46 am
Hi All,
When a chain starts to stretch, what would be the best elongation
point to replace the chain (onyl) before it makes too much damage to
the other parts of the transmission kit, pls?
Thanks,
Big Ben
Posted by The Older Gentleman on April 1, 2005, 1:51 am
> Hi All,
>
> When a chain starts to stretch, what would be the best elongation
> point to replace the chain (onyl) before it makes too much damage to
> the other parts of the transmission kit, pls?
>
Doesn't really matter. If the chain is totally knackered, you tend to
replace the sprockets with it.
--
Trophy 1200 (Doctored)750SS CB750F2 CB400F CD200 ST70 DT50MX
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
Posted by BigBen on April 3, 2005, 11:45 pm
On Fri, 1 Apr 2005 07:51:31 +0100,
chateauSPAMKILL.murray@dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>Doesn't really matter. If the chain is totally knackered, you tend to
>replace the sprockets with it.
Right ... The idea is to replace the chain only, before it damages the
rest of the transmission kit too, as it is my understanding that an
elongated chain will cause much more wear to rest of the kit than a
chain in good condition. (That's the general rule for chain driven
transmissions, as far as I know best.)
See you,
Big Ben
Posted by The Older Gentleman on April 4, 2005, 2:26 am
> On Fri, 1 Apr 2005 07:51:31 +0100,
> chateauSPAMKILL.murray@dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>
> >Doesn't really matter. If the chain is totally knackered, you tend to
> >replace the sprockets with it.
>
> Right ... The idea is to replace the chain only, before it damages the
> rest of the transmission kit too, as it is my understanding that an
> elongated chain will cause much more wear to rest of the kit than a
> chain in good condition. (That's the general rule for chain driven
> transmissions, as far as I know best.)
>
Well, it's only a chain and sprockets, and to be honest they aren't
expensive components. I've generally found, on most bikes, that a set of
sprockets will last for two chains.
On my Ducati I change the sprox with the chain, because the transmission
gets such a beating from the power pulses.
--
Trophy 1200 (Doctored)750SS CB750F2 CB400F CD200 ST70 DT50MX
GAGARPHOF#30 GHPOTHUF#1 BOTAFOT#60 ANORAK#06 YTC#3
BOF#30 WUSS#5 The bells, the bells.....
Posted by Mark Hickey on April 4, 2005, 10:28 am
chateauSPAMKILL.murray@dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>> On Fri, 1 Apr 2005 07:51:31 +0100,
>> chateauSPAMKILL.murray@dsl.pipex.com (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
>>
>> >Doesn't really matter. If the chain is totally knackered, you tend to
>> >replace the sprockets with it.
>>
>> Right ... The idea is to replace the chain only, before it damages the
>> rest of the transmission kit too, as it is my understanding that an
>> elongated chain will cause much more wear to rest of the kit than a
>> chain in good condition. (That's the general rule for chain driven
>> transmissions, as far as I know best.)
>>
>Well, it's only a chain and sprockets, and to be honest they aren't
>expensive components. I've generally found, on most bikes, that a set of
>sprockets will last for two chains.
>On my Ducati I change the sprox with the chain, because the transmission
>gets such a beating from the power pulses.
The wear on the sprockets goes up dramatically as the chain wears
(since the load on individual teeth increases as fewer and fewer of
'em take the load). On a bicycle this means it's a great idea to
periodically change the (cheap) chain to protect the (more expensive)
sprockets (chainrings and cassette, actually). On a motorcycle, the
cost difference between the chain and sprockets aren't so different so
I suppose it's less of an issue.
Mark Hickey
>
> When a chain starts to stretch, what would be the best elongation
> point to replace the chain (onyl) before it makes too much damage to
> the other parts of the transmission kit, pls?
>