ignition trouble please help!!!

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ignition trouble please help!!! Thomas-ex500 06-29-2008
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Posted by Thomas-ex500 on June 29, 2008, 12:55 am
Hello everyone, I'm need of some minor help!!! I have a 93 ex500 I purchased
in 95 well a week later i let a friend ride it and needless to say he crashed
it into a house, from that point i picked up the pieces and brought it all
home and tried to start it but i could never get any spark out of the right
side coil, and being i had no cash on hand to fix it right away i just parked
in the backyard and considered it a loss... well about a month ago well just
say i got a wild hair in my a** to try and get it running and rideable again
lol... i bought a haynes manual which is completly USELESS cause it simply
just say's install the part's the same way you took them off...

thing's i've done so far... I bought brand new from OEM... 2 coil's, 2 spark
plug cap's and plugs, a cdi unit, and coil pick up's for inside the magneto...


off of e-bay i got a wire harness cause OEM doesn't make them anymore for
some reason and mine was chopped up due to the crash...

well i put all the new and used part's on the bike and tried to crank it
over! but there was no go the engin was cranking but not starting not even a
pop so i removed the plugs to see if i was getting any spark from either of
the new coils the left side sparked fine and was bright blue but when i did
the same process for the right side i got nothing and this is where i need
help...

I though at first i might had fried a coil cause the haynes manual doesn't
describe anything (wire wise) that matches the colors of my wires neither do
the coil's have a plus or minus on them so i switched the left coil with the
right and got no spark that way (cause the left side works fine), so i tried
them both on the left side again and they both work fine... so why would i
get spark to the left and not the right???

i even chopped up the old wire harness (only the electrical tape) that was
on the bike to trace the wires being the left side coil has a green wire and
a red wire, and the right side has a black wire and a brown wire...
so throughout these 4 wires one goes to the on off switch, 2 go to the cdi
unit, and i forget where the last one connect's to, i'll be sure to check
where it lead's to tomorrow and list it here...

I've noticed the brown wire goes to the cdi unit and on the same connector
as that brown wire there is another brown wire that goes to the fuse/relay
box soooo... is the fuse/relay box just a fuse box or is there something
additional in there that could power the right side coil???

thing's i'm going to try tomorrow is
1. runnin a light tester to that addition brown wire on the fuse box to see
if there is ANY current in it at all
2. bypass the kickstand switch by simply connecting the 2 wires together
with a piece of metal

If i come up with/try something more i'll be sure to list it here so
everyone get's the general idea of what i've done so far

ANY help/suggestion's is much appreciated

in addition there aren't any light bulbs on the bike except for the
headlight but i don't think i need them to complete a curcuit to get the bike
up and running again... THANKS in advance!!! Thomas...


Posted by Thomas-ex500 on June 29, 2008, 1:15 am
Thomas-ex500 wrote:
>Hello everyone, I'm need of some minor help!!! I have a 93 ex500 I purchased
>in 95 well a week later i let a friend ride it and needless to say he crashed
>it into a house, from that point i picked up the pieces and brought it all
>home and tried to start it but i could never get any spark out of the right
>side coil, and being i had no cash on hand to fix it right away i just parked
>in the backyard and considered it a loss... well about a month ago well just
>say i got a wild hair in my a** to try and get it running and rideable again
>lol... i bought a haynes manual which is completly USELESS cause it simply
>just say's install the part's the same way you took them off...
>
> thing's i've done so far... I bought brand new from OEM... 2 coil's, 2 spark
>plug cap's and plugs, a cdi unit, and coil pick up's for inside the magneto...
>
>
> off of e-bay i got a wire harness cause OEM doesn't make them anymore for
>some reason and mine was chopped up due to the crash...
>
> well i put all the new and used part's on the bike and tried to crank it
>over! but there was no go the engin was cranking but not starting not even a
>pop so i removed the plugs to see if i was getting any spark from either of
>the new coils the left side sparked fine and was bright blue but when i did
>the same process for the right side i got nothing and this is where i need
>help...
>
> I though at first i might had fried a coil cause the haynes manual doesn't
>describe anything (wire wise) that matches the colors of my wires neither do
>the coil's have a plus or minus on them so i switched the left coil with the
>right and got no spark that way (cause the left side works fine), so i tried
>them both on the left side again and they both work fine... so why would i
>get spark to the left and not the right???
>
> i even chopped up the old wire harness (only the electrical tape) that was
>on the bike to trace the wires being the left side coil has a green wire and
>a red wire, and the right side has a black wire and a brown wire...
> so throughout these 4 wires one goes to the on off switch, 2 go to the cdi
>unit, and i forget where the last one connect's to, i'll be sure to check
>where it lead's to tomorrow and list it here...
>
> I've noticed the brown wire goes to the cdi unit and on the same connector
>as that brown wire there is another brown wire that goes to the fuse/relay
>box soooo... is the fuse/relay box just a fuse box or is there something
>additional in there that could power the right side coil???
>
>thing's i'm going to try tomorrow is
> 1. runnin a light tester to that addition brown wire on the fuse box to see
>if there is ANY current in it at all
> 2. bypass the kickstand switch by simply connecting the 2 wires together
>with a piece of metal
>
> If i come up with/try something more i'll be sure to list it here so
>everyone get's the general idea of what i've done so far
>
> ANY help/suggestion's is much appreciated
>
> in addition there aren't any light bulbs on the bike except for the
>headlight but i don't think i need them to complete a curcuit to get the bike
>up and running again...
when put in gear with the clutch lever pulled in the bike doesn't seem to
disengage back to neutral like it should...
there are no gauges on the bike either but i do have a cluster, i'll hook
this up tomorrow to find out if the neutral switch is working IF the light
bulb still works in it...
THANKS in advance!!! Thomas...


Posted by . on June 29, 2008, 9:29 am

> =EF=BF=BDI though at first i might had fried a coil cause the haynes manua=
l doesn't
> describe anything (wire wise) that matches the colors of my wires neither =
do
> the coil's have a plus or minus on them so i switched the left coil with t=
he
> right and got no spark that way (cause the left side works fine), so i tri=
ed
> them both on the left side again and they both work fine... so why would i=

> get spark to the left and not the right???

Both coils get their power from the ignition switch. Power goes
through the coils to the CDI box, and transistors inside the box
complete the circuit to the motorcycle chassis.

You might be having problems with ONE pin, in one of the motorcycle
wiring harness connectors. Look carefully at the connectors for the
CDI and
the pulse generator. One pin may be loose or have been pushed back.

> =EF=BF=BD2. bypass the kickstand switch by simply connecting the 2 wires t=
ogether
> with a piece of metal

On a Kawasaki, the sidestand switch cuts off power to BOTH coils when
the
stand is down.


Posted by Thomas-ex500 via MotorcycleKB. on June 29, 2008, 11:53 pm
wrote:
>> �I though at first i might had fried a coil cause the haynes manual doesn't
>> describe anything (wire wise) that matches the colors of my wires neither do
>> the coil's have a plus or minus on them so i switched the left coil with the
>> right and got no spark that way (cause the left side works fine), so i tried
>> them both on the left side again and they both work fine... so why would i
>> get spark to the left and not the right???
>
>Both coils get their power from the ignition switch. Power goes
>through the coils to the CDI box, and transistors inside the box
>complete the circuit to the motorcycle chassis.
>
>You might be having problems with ONE pin, in one of the motorcycle
>wiring harness connectors. Look carefully at the connectors for the
>CDI and
>the pulse generator. One pin may be loose or have been pushed back.
>
>> �2. bypass the kickstand switch by simply connecting the 2 wires together
>> with a piece of metal
>
>On a Kawasaki, the sidestand switch cuts off power to BOTH coils when
>the
>stand is down.


Ok here's the latest!!!
today i bypassed the kickstand switch by simply putting a tiny piece of
metal in between the connectors for it and surprisingly enough i got spark
out of both left and right coils (not just the left), so i just sprayed some
ether in the right side airbox hole and gave it hell with the starter and to
my satisfaction the bike finally kicked over!!! which totally made my day a
whole lot brighter although it only ran for a few minutes due to there was no
gas tank installed i'm sure it'll run now with a gas tank installed instead
of just burning out what is in the carb bowls...

the gauge cluster also worked and indicated the bike is in neutral due to
the light lighting up so i now know the neutral switch works just fine and
that isn't a problem :-)

just out of curiosity though how would i go about testing some of the other
thing's either with bike running or off

1. the oil sending unit?
2. the radiator sensor on the left side of the radiator?
3.the radiator fan?

that's about all i can come up with to have a safe clean running bike off
hand (so it won't explode in my face) unless something internally is jared
from the crash and well only running it well tell that when it goes poof and
oil starts spilling out of it...

as far as the clutch problem when i started it, like i said i didn't have
the gas tank installed so it only ran for a few minutes, the oil sending unit
WIRE was detached so i didn't want to further stress it without that
connected and didn't keep it running long, on top of that i didn't have the
bike sitting on cyinder blocks so i couldn't simply jam it into gear cause it
would have most definately took off on (there is no center stand) it did
originally have one but i though it looked kind of bulky just hanging under
there let alone it adds about 10 lbs of weight so i removed it when i
purchased the bike for a sleeker look and weight reduction but god only
know's where in my garage it's at today lol...

THANK'S!!! to the fellow above that tried to help me with my ignition
trouble even though i had taken care of it already and THANK'S for being
upfront to a first time forum user...

This isn't my first bike as i'm sure you can tell but it's deffinately the
first destroyed bike i've ever tried to work on myself without much help and
also i'm sure everyone know's if it isn't just a lil spill while sitting at a
light or some sort of other minor disaster most bikes are completly destroyed
so to all of us (organ donors) out there be safe, ride responsibly, always be
on the defensive ride, find your riding cushion and watch out for the idiot's
that don't pay attention and just pull out into traffic without any regard
for anyone else...

--
Message posted via http://www.motorcyclekb.com


Posted by . on June 30, 2008, 12:22 am
On Jun 29, 8:53=EF=BF=BDpm, "Thomas-ex500 via MotorcycleKB.com" <u44553@uwe=
>
wrote:

> =EF=BF=BDjust out of curiosity though how would i go about testing some o=
f the other
> thing's either with bike running or off
>
> =EF=BF=BD1. the oil sending unit?

It's probably just a pressure switch that is closed when there is no
oil pressure.
You should get zero ohms, or a very low reading when you check from
the terminal to the engine, when the engine isn't running. When you
start the engine, the ohmmeter reading should be infinity.

> =EF=BF=BD2. the radiator sensor on the left side of the radiator?

If the sensor is for a temperature gauge, the resistance will change
as the coolant temperature changes. If the sensor is actually a
thermal switch, you would have to
run the engine until the coolant gets very hot, and then your ohmmeter
would read zero, or a very small reading when the switch contacts
closed.

> =EF=BF=BD3.the radiator fan?

It probably gets power from a fan relay which is controlled by a
thermal switch, as mentioned above.

You can probably get the fan to run by turning the ignition switch on
and grounding the thermal switch lead to the engine.

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