Posted by Rob Kleinschmidt on October 29, 2008, 2:18 pm
Anybody ever done any work with plastic resin casting ?
I'm looking to replace a destroyed 3-pole male JPT connector
which is apparantly always a one-off run for individual mfrs and
never available as a standard part.
I took one quick hack at a casting using a female housing
as a mold with a plastic repair epoxy kit mixed with a little bit
of liquid insulation paint as the casting material. I got a part
that could probably be made to work in a pinch but which
had some problems with bubbles.
Having done the one quick trial, I want to take a second shot
and try for a better part. The finished part should be reasonably
strong, non-conductive and resistant to standard automotive
sprays and cleaners. Seems like probably a hobbyist or
electronics resin would be the best shot.
Any suggestions much appreciated.
Posted by Mark Olson on October 29, 2008, 2:33 pm
Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> Anybody ever done any work with plastic resin casting ?
>
> I'm looking to replace a destroyed 3-pole male JPT connector
> which is apparantly always a one-off run for individual mfrs and
> never available as a standard part.
>
> I took one quick hack at a casting using a female housing
> as a mold with a plastic repair epoxy kit mixed with a little bit
> of liquid insulation paint as the casting material. I got a part
> that could probably be made to work in a pinch but which
> had some problems with bubbles.
>
> Having done the one quick trial, I want to take a second shot
> and try for a better part. The finished part should be reasonably
> strong, non-conductive and resistant to standard automotive
> sprays and cleaners. Seems like probably a hobbyist or
> electronics resin would be the best shot.
>
> Any suggestions much appreciated.
Replace both sides of the connection with a high quality industry standard
weatherproof connector. Sure, you can no longer plug-and-play if either
component is replaced in the future, but you can always replace the
connector on the new component because you chose a common widely used
and available connector. If you're really paranoid buy a few spares when
you pick your new connector.
Otherwise, send me a ProE or Solidworks model and I could get you a
couple of SLA pieces made on our "Santa Claus Machine"...
Posted by Rob Kleinschmidt on October 29, 2008, 4:09 pm
> Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> > Anybody ever done any work with plastic resin casting ?
> > I'm looking to replace a destroyed 3-pole male JPT connector
> > which is apparantly always a one-off run for individual mfrs and
> > never available as a standard part.
> > I took one quick hack at a casting using a female housing
> > as a mold with a plastic repair epoxy kit mixed with a little bit
> > of liquid insulation paint as the casting material. I got a part
> > that could probably be made to work in a pinch but which
> > had some problems with bubbles.
> > Having done the one quick trial, I want to take a second shot
> > and try for a better part. The finished part should be reasonably
> > strong, non-conductive and resistant to standard automotive
> > sprays and cleaners. Seems like probably a hobbyist or
> > electronics resin would be the best shot.
> > Any suggestions much appreciated.
> Replace both sides of the connection with a high quality industry standard
> weatherproof connector. Sure, you can no longer plug-and-play if either
> component is replaced in the future, but you can always replace the
> connector on the new component because you chose a common widely used
> and available connector. If you're really paranoid buy a few spares when
> you pick your new connector.
> Otherwise, send me a ProE or Solidworks model and I could get you a
> couple of SLA pieces made on our "Santa Claus Machine"...
I've thought about swapping out the connector but
hate to chop up a stock harness. What was absolutely
astonishing was to find female 3-pole JT/JPT connectors
but no matching males anywhere on the whole damn
internet.
The first attempt at casting went well enough that I'll
probably give it another try.
Apparantly the BMW Hall sender male connector is a
POS one off part that disintegrates readily in the presence
of common automotive solvents, leaving the hapless owner
to buy a $400 part because a plastic connector is broken.
I was sort of looking for a general plug and play solution.
Posted by Mark Olson on October 29, 2008, 4:55 pm
Rob Kleinschmidt wrote:
> Apparantly the BMW Hall sender male connector is a
> POS one off part that disintegrates readily in the presence
> of common automotive solvents, leaving the hapless owner
> to buy a $400 part because a plastic connector is broken.
> I was sort of looking for a general plug and play solution.
Sounds like sufficient justification to snip the OEM connector.
Sometimes being "perfectly stock" or plug and play isn't even
the best overall situation. Like I said, replace both sides
and keep a spare connector under the seat, if you are on the
road and need a replacement or repair, you're covered.
Posted by Jack Hunt on October 29, 2008, 5:23 pm
On Wed, 29 Oct 2008 13:09:32 -0700 (PDT), Rob Kleinschmidt
> Apparantly the BMW Hall sender male connector is a
>POS one off part that disintegrates readily in the presence
>of common automotive solvents, leaving the hapless owner
>to buy a $400 part because a plastic connector is broken.
So tell us again the advantage of keeping the stock harness.
--
Jack
>
> I'm looking to replace a destroyed 3-pole male JPT connector
> which is apparantly always a one-off run for individual mfrs and
> never available as a standard part.
>
> I took one quick hack at a casting using a female housing
> as a mold with a plastic repair epoxy kit mixed with a little bit
> of liquid insulation paint as the casting material. I got a part
> that could probably be made to work in a pinch but which
> had some problems with bubbles.
>
> Having done the one quick trial, I want to take a second shot
> and try for a better part. The finished part should be reasonably
> strong, non-conductive and resistant to standard automotive
> sprays and cleaners. Seems like probably a hobbyist or
> electronics resin would be the best shot.
>
> Any suggestions much appreciated.