'85 XL600R probs

 

The last time I worked on my 1985 XL600R was about 5 years ago - at that
time it would start with a lot of effort, but wouldn't stay running
reliably.  Someone on this forum suggested going through the Clymer or
Haynes manuals' trouble-shooting section, and I could have SWORN I did
and that the last thing to check in the trouble-shooting tree (assuming
good spark, fuel, etc.) was the kill switch.

I just sold it to a co-worker who wants to get it running, and he says
he measured the kill switch as being shorted irrespective of the
position it was in.  (so to me that means the kill switch must have been
the culprit - how often do 2 things go wrong at the same time?)

Meanwhile, neither the Clymer or Haynes manuals even *mention* the kill
switch, nor show it on the wiring diagrams.  (Did I dream the
kill-switch thing in the trouble-shooting tree?)   He finally found a
schematic online that shows the kill switch, and it should be *open* to
run, so he just cut the wires.

When I was trouble-shooting 5 years ago, I had the head done (new valve
seals, new cam, re-seating the valves, new timing chain), replaced the
pulser, CDI unit, and rebuilt the carbs - but danged if the thing still
won't run reliably.  The guy I sold it to checked the rectifier and
tells me it's not got continuity as it should (according to manual) -
but that's the *one* part they don't make any more.  It does have a
spark, so is the rectifier really necessary?  I didn't disassemble the
bottom-end when I did the head/pulser, so the timing should still be
correct.

Can anyone help please?  It used to run really sweet and was easy to
start until this problem developed.  I see the factory manuals are $50
on ebay for that model year.  I may have seen the kill-switch in the
trouble-shooting section of one of those then lost it (???)

Thanks!
PattiM

 

http://web.archive.org/web/20061211155147/ursa.irk.ru/manual/
or
http://web.archive.org/web/20041115030925/194.19.84.6/xr/

hope this helps

take the kill switch apart clean it with wd40 or some
other penetrating oil.....put it back together re install
on bike... if that doesn't do it get a new kill switch
from local dealer or used on from a bone yard

 

On 02/15/2010 09:57 AM, john wrote:


I added a toggle switch for those long steep dead-stick downhills.

--
Cheers, Bev
Far away in a strange land

 



 When I was trouble-shooting 5 years ago, I had the head done (new valve

Hi Patti,

Could you elaborate on not runnming reliably?  Is it a rough idle?  Is is
conking out whether hot or cold?

I've got an 87, with the service manual and a few spare carburetor parts and
filters.  Right now, I've had it for about 15 years (29k miles) and it had
the head and timing chain, valves replaced when it had about 11k miles.

The last problem I had that drove me nuts was an intermittent push on gound
for the ignition electronics.  It was a spade lug that grounded the coil and
CDI unit and it would wobble loose when ever it felt like it, then
reconnected itself when I would go looking for it.

I also took some waveform pictures of the alternator output that runs the
CDI (used my Fluke 97, removed spark plug and kicked it) and you could see
an occasional collapse of the alternator when the ground would disconnect.
Also got pictures of the CDI output and the trigger signal.

Lastly, I always advance the idle screw when the thing is cold, maybe 3/4 of
a turn and also advance the enrichener a bit and it takes, depending on when
it was last started, either one to five kicks.

When it is hot, well, they tell me to adjust the valves, but it can take ten
to fifteen kicks to get it to fire.

I'm in Santa Clara, California, if you are nearby, I would offer Mike Baxter
to help.

Joe Rooney

 

 I too would be interested in some elaboration on how it,
 is/is not, running.
 Has it run since the cam was replaced? Possibly off by one
 tooth on the cam sprocket?
 I got my '85 XL350R from a friend at work. It had sat in an
 open air garage for 5-6 years before I bought it with ~8,000mi.
 Mine would start after 5-6 kicks, but, would run rough at
 idle. I tore damn near every part off the bike and replaced
 it with a new one. Only to be rewarded with the same rough
 idle and poor performance.
 Like your bike. I finally pulled the head to find two of the
 valve seats were chipped and it did not have much compression.
 Complete head re-build by XRSonly. Put it back together and
 it started (more or less) first kick...but.... from 1/3 throttle
 to 3/4 throttle it spit, cough and sputtered like an
 asthmatic old man.
 Long story short. After pulling the (twin carbs) off 12 times.
 Cleaning and soaking them over and over. I finally used some
 compressed air to blow through the orifices. I was rewarded
 with a 'pop' when I blew air through the passage for the
 emulsifier tube to the main jet. (on the primary carb. btw)
 What was happening was raw gas was being drawing up past the
 main jet and slide needle and not being atomized by air being
 drawn past the emulsifier tube. This is the tube with holes
 in it that the main jet screws into.
 Once the carb was clean the bike is a "first kick starter"
 Either hot or cold. Without using the choke. As long as you
 follow the correct (4-stroke starting drill). very important.
 Bring piston to top dead center on compression stroke. Ease it
 just past TDC. Bring the kick start lever to the top and push
 all the way through the stroke like you mean it.

 I am sure with a little more information. Someone here can
 get you headed in the right direction.
 Good luck, Jeff   So. Cal.
------------------------------------------------------------------
"Joe Rooney"  wrote:
 <SNIP>