Posted by Dean H on May 5, 2011, 2:49 pm
Some go by the rule that if a standard fastener doesn't require
threadlocker, it should get anti-sieze.
Anyway, I'm wondering if I should put a little anti-sieze on my
cylinder base studs since they thread into a dissimilar metal. They
were pleasantly easy to remove, but show no signs of thread treatment.
One of the studs was a little crusty, so I'm going to get a tap to run
through that hole and tidy things up a little. I'm replacing 2 studs
out of necessity, and two out of vanity.
-dean
just another crusty stud
Posted by HellSickle on May 5, 2011, 5:59 pm
> Some go by the rule that if a standard fastener doesn't require
> threadlocker, it should get anti-sieze.
> Anyway, I'm wondering if I should put a little anti-sieze on my
> cylinder base studs since they thread into a dissimilar metal. They
> were pleasantly easy to remove, but show no signs of thread treatment.
> One of the studs was a little crusty, so I'm going to get a tap to run
> through that hole and tidy things up a little. I'm replacing 2 studs
> out of necessity, and two out of vanity.
There is always the exception that proves the rule.
For head & cylinder bolts, I would at least use a layer of oil. If
there is any possibility of exposure to coolant, coat it with anti-
sneeze.
Posted by Rowdy on May 11, 2011, 7:11 am
Am 05.05.2011 23:59, schrieb HellSickle:
> There is always the exception that proves the rule.
> For head& cylinder bolts, I would at least use a layer of oil. If
> there is any possibility of exposure to coolant, coat it with anti-
> sneeze.
I beg to differ. Never ever use oil or grease on bolt that really can
get hot. The steel studs on my sister's XT350 were in fact united with
the nuts. Opening them so ever gently ripped 3 of the four.
Buddy of mine did a really awesome job of drilling them out w/o damaging
the aluminum threads in the cylinder head!
Personally if anything I'd only use high temp spray on copper "grease",
something of which the box/packing claims to be suitable for turbo
charger cases et.al.
In my experience oil and grease tend to solidify when exposed to high
temperatures for a long time, w/o being pumped around, that is.
And you certainly don't want to have something solid fill the tiny gap
between stud/bolt and nut/case.
Rowdy
Posted by Dean H on May 11, 2011, 8:51 am
> Am 05.05.2011 23:59, schrieb HellSickle:
> > There is always the exception that proves the rule.
> > For head& cylinder bolts, I would at least use a layer of oil. If
> > there is any possibility of exposure to coolant, coat it with anti-
> > sneeze.
> I beg to differ. Never ever use oil or grease on bolt that really can
> get hot. The steel studs on my sister's XT350 were in fact united with
> the nuts. Opening them so ever gently ripped 3 of the four.
> Buddy of mine did a really awesome job of drilling them out w/o damaging
> the aluminum threads in the cylinder head!
> Personally if anything I'd only use high temp spray on copper "grease",
> something of which the box/packing claims to be suitable for turbo
> charger cases et.al.
> In my experience oil and grease tend to solidify when exposed to high
> temperatures for a long time, w/o being pumped around, that is.
> And you certainly don't want to have something solid fill the tiny gap
> between stud/bolt and nut/case.
> Rowdy
Oh jeez. Hey, I was able to relax for a few minutes anyway...
I do have some copper anti-sieze...
too late now.
Posted by Rowdy on May 12, 2011, 4:26 am
Am 11.05.2011 14:51, schrieb Dean H:
> Oh jeez. Hey, I was able to relax for a few minutes anyway...
> I do have some copper anti-sieze...
> too late now.
No worries mate, you've easily got a year or two till they're
glued in place. :-)
I've got a similar situation with the lower oil filter cover
bolt on my WRF. Last time my buddy did an oil and filter change
(I'm feeding his vehicle workshop business) on it he was very
concerned about the torque change felt while tightening the bolt.
So I decided to only change the oil and not the filter from then on.
If threads dies upon opening the bolt I'll make sure this doesn't
happen days before a vacation. Maybe this winter... I'll see.
Rowdy
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> threadlocker, it should get anti-sieze.
> Anyway, I'm wondering if I should put a little anti-sieze on my
> cylinder base studs since they thread into a dissimilar metal. They
> were pleasantly easy to remove, but show no signs of thread treatment.
> One of the studs was a little crusty, so I'm going to get a tap to run
> through that hole and tidy things up a little. I'm replacing 2 studs
> out of necessity, and two out of vanity.