Top end selection?

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Top end selection? DanKMTB@gmail.com 08-03-2008
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Posted by DanKMTB@gmail.com on August 3, 2008, 1:51 pm


Hi,

I have a 2002 KX125 that I am looking to rebuild the top end on.
Which piston would give me the best low & mid range torque
improvement? I'm not too concerned about top-end, but would like a
little more low and mid. What piston would you suggest and why?
Would a high-compression piston increase low and mid, or is that more
of a top-end improvement?

Thanks,
Dan

Posted by Wudsracer on August 4, 2008, 2:38 am



*********************************************
>On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 10:51:40 -0700 (PDT), "DanKMTB@.com> wrote:

>Hi,
>
>I have a 2002 KX125 that I am looking to rebuild the top end on.
>Which piston would give me the best low & mid range torque
>improvement? I'm not too concerned about top-end, but would like a
>little more low and mid. What piston would you suggest and why?
>Would a high-compression piston increase low and mid, or is that more
>of a top-end improvement?
>
>Thanks,
>Dan
*************************************

Dan,
Higher compression will give you more low end torque, and won't hurt
top end a bit. No matter what compression the piston gives you to
start, as soon as the rings start going away, you will lose it. Pay
attention after the rebuild and replace the rings as soon as you can
tell (by feel) or measure any difference in compression.

The piston isn't going to make a lot of difference in power. You
might bump up the compression a bit with a special piston, but (as far
as I know) you are always going to be stuck with a single ring piston.

Your piston selection should probably be made in consideration of
lightness, strength, and wear, as well as frequent ring replacement
costs. (If you are really serious about keeping the most power, you
will want to replace the piston ring fairly frequently.)

You will best tailor your power by:
(internally) possibly reshaping the head and keeping the bore good
and tight, reconditioning as soon as it is no longer round.
(externally) PROPER JETTING. Also, with different reeds, pipes,
silencers, and possibly re-timing the powervalve, one can enhance
different areas of the power delivery; but it's almost always at the
expense of another area of the power delivery. But proper jetting and
the right pipe will give you the most of what you are looking for.

I was always a fan of Pro Circuit two stroke pipes, since they
seemed to give a little more power everywhere over stock (with proper
jetting).
FMF pipes seem to be tuned to enhance more specific areas of the
power delivery. (Gnarly, Fatty, or Rev model pipes. Although the SST
was/is supposed to simply work better everywhere, I wouldn't really
know.)


The main thing is to be properly jetted (with a freshly packed
silencer and good reeds), piped, and geared for your purposes.

Good Riding!

Jim


Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF


Posted by DanKMTB@gmail.com on August 4, 2008, 10:26 am


> *********************************************
>
> >On Sun, 3 Aug 2008 10:51:40 -0700 (PDT), "DanKMTB@.com> wrote:
> >Hi,
>
> >I have a 2002 KX125 that I am looking to rebuild the top end on.
> >Which piston would give me the best low & mid range torque
> >improvement? I'm not too concerned about top-end, but would like a
> >little more low and mid. What piston would you suggest and why?
> >Would a high-compression piston increase low and mid, or is that more
> >of a top-end improvement?
>
> >Thanks,
> >Dan
>
> *************************************
>
> Dan,
> Higher compression will give you more low end torque, and won't hurt
> top end a bit. No matter what compression the piston gives you to
> start, as soon as the rings start going away, you will lose it. Pay
> attention after the rebuild and replace the rings as soon as you can
> tell (by feel) or measure any difference in compression.

Thanks. I couldn=92t remember what part of the power range high-
compression helped, so this is key info. Appreciate it.


> The piston isn't going to make a lot of difference in power. You
> might bump up the compression a bit with a special piston, but (as far
> as I know) you are always going to be stuck with a single ring piston.
>
> Your piston selection should probably be made in consideration of
> lightness, strength, and wear, as well as frequent ring replacement
> costs. (If you are really serious about keeping the most power, you
> will want to replace the piston ring fairly frequently.)

I am willing to replace rings and anything else as necessary =96 I enjoy
a good excuse to play with my tools. The previous owner seriously
neglected maintenance, and I plan to turn that around 100%.


> You will best tailor your power by:
> (internally) possibly reshaping the head and keeping the bore good
> and tight, reconditioning as soon as it is no longer round.

Again, I=92ll do what is necessarty, but I=92m on a budget and am a lot
more eager to twist some wrenches myself than I am to get into work
like this. If need be I will, but that=92s a big hit to the bank, and
I=92m trying to keep the tab within reason.


> (externally) PROPER JETTING.

This is somewhere I=92m going to need to do some learning. I figure I
could pay to have it jetted for what I=92ll spend learning, but the
knowledge will pay off in the long run. Any suggestions for resources
when it comes to learning jetting?


> Also, with different reeds, pipes,
> silencers, and possibly re-timing the powervalve, one can enhance
> different areas of the power delivery; but it's almost always at the
> expense of another area of the power delivery. But proper jetting and
> the right pipe will give you the most of what you are looking for.

Again, I need to learn here. The bike already has aftermarket reeds
(as well as almost everything else) but I=92m not sure what model, and
what type of performance they were after at the time of the mods. I
assume top end, based on the fact that the bike was raced and the way
it performs now (all top-end, almost nothing else).


> I was always a fan of Pro Circuit two stroke pipes, since they
> seemed to give a little more power everywhere over stock (with proper
> jetting).
> FMF pipes seem to be tuned to enhance more specific areas of the
> power delivery. (Gnarly, Fatty, or Rev model pipes. Although the SST
> was/is supposed to simply work better everywhere, I wouldn't really
> know.)

The current setup is an FMF platinum pipe with an FMF q series
silencer. It had a Pro-Circuit 304 shorty silencer, but that was too
loud for where I ride so I went with the Q. I noticed a bit of mid &
low-end power improvement upon replacement of the pipe, but not as
much as I am looking for.


> The main thing is to be properly jetted (with a freshly packed
> silencer and good reeds), piped, and geared for your purposes.

I=92ve got a new silencer, so the work to be done is jetting and reeds.
I already asked for references on jetting, so how do I tell if the
reeds are =93good=94? They are aftermarket quality reeds (boyseen I
think, I=92m not near the bike at the moment) but I don=92t know how to
tell if they=92re worn.


> Good Riding!
>
> Jim

Thanks for all the input! I really appreciate the help.

Posted by Wudsracer on August 4, 2008, 3:48 pm


To answer your questions...

Remove the reed cage from the bike, and visually inspect the reeds.
Two main things to look for:
1. Do all the reeds lie completely flat against the cage to allow them
to seal?
2. Are there any cracks, breaks, nicks, or fraying of the reeds?
If any of this is apparent, replace them.

Since you have an FMF pipe and silencer, contact FMF about their
suggested starting points (pilot jet, main jet, slide, needle, clip
position, etc.) for your bike's jetting.
Then, work from there, until you get the power delivery to suit you
and your riding.


Good Wrenching!

Jim



Wudsracer/Jim Cook
Smackover Racing
'06 Gas Gas DE300
'82 Husqvarna XC250
Team LAGNAF


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