Posted by Iron Moped on December 13, 2006, 9:12 am
I have a '68 T100R that has developed an exhaust leak on the left header.
It looks like the threaded, metallic gasket securing the header in place
is shot. After pouring over both the Clymer unit twins manual and the unit
500 shop manual, I don't see the gasket in any of the exhaust diagrams.
I'm sure that the head on the bike isn't the original unit; it has a
single-carb manifold and doesn't appear to have exhaust adaptors.
Is there a trick to mounting the header? Is there a gasket that fits in
the exhaust outlet? The end of the header is threaded, as is the exhaust
outlet in the head; however, when I push the header pipe in, there is a
fair amount of wiggle room between the pipe's wall and the head. Is this
where the gasket fits?
I'm tempted to seal the header's threads with cement and just fit the
header, though that would suck (pun intended) to have the cylinder suck in
gasket cement particles.
Any idears?
Posted by oldgeezer on December 13, 2006, 10:54 am
Iron Moped schreef:
> I have a '68 T100R that has developed an exhaust leak on the left header.
> It looks like the threaded, metallic gasket securing the header in place
> is shot. After pouring over both the Clymer unit twins manual and the unit
> 500 shop manual, I don't see the gasket in any of the exhaust diagrams.
> I'm sure that the head on the bike isn't the original unit; it has a
> single-carb manifold and doesn't appear to have exhaust adaptors.
> Is there a trick to mounting the header? Is there a gasket that fits in
> the exhaust outlet? The end of the header is threaded, as is the exhaust
> outlet in the head; however, when I push the header pipe in, there is a
> fair amount of wiggle room between the pipe's wall and the head. Is this
> where the gasket fits?
> I'm tempted to seal the header's threads with cement and just fit the
> header, though that would suck (pun intended) to have the cylinder suck in
> gasket cement particles.
> Any idears?
Of course an original gasket (if any) is best. But...
For an old beamer that lost it's thread at
the cylinder/exhaust point, I used
'kneadable iron'.
One can buy that over here at any DIY shop.
Brand here is 'Ceta Bever', but other brands
make it too.
It is one of the things I always have in my
emergency tools.
The stuff is a putty that is sold in two shapes.
One shape looks like a large strip of good old
Maple Leaf chewing gum (whitish outside,
black inside), the other is a small bar,
about 3.5 inch long, 1 inch dia. That bar
is dark-gray outside, black inside.
It has the consistency of clay (but without
the water).
You cut off a piece, knead it for a while
and form it to the shape that you need,
put that in place and mount the exhaust.
It works perfect, even at the head/exhaust
point, where things get pretty hot.
There are other 'kneadables' too. Use
the 'iron', which is best suited.
Don't get it in between threads. You'll have
a problem unscrewing later, because it does
not dissolve or melt at high temp.
Rob.
Posted by Iron Moped on December 13, 2006, 1:32 pm
Thanks for the advice, Rob. I went home at lunch to have another look. As
it turns out, there is an adaptor on my header, it was just wedged into
the pipe. The adaptor isn't the correct size and the 'gasket' is actually
foil wrapped around the threads of the adaptor. Go figure. I went ahead
and re-wrapped the bottom of the adaptor and fitted into the head without
any problems.
On Wed, 13 Dec 2006, oldgeezer wrote:
> Of course an original gasket (if any) is best. But...
> For an old beamer that lost it's thread at
> the cylinder/exhaust point, I used
> 'kneadable iron'.
> One can buy that over here at any DIY shop.
> Brand here is 'Ceta Bever', but other brands
> make it too.
> It is one of the things I always have in my
> emergency tools.
> The stuff is a putty that is sold in two shapes.
> One shape looks like a large strip of good old
> Maple Leaf chewing gum (whitish outside,
> black inside), the other is a small bar,
> about 3.5 inch long, 1 inch dia. That bar
> is dark-gray outside, black inside.
> It has the consistency of clay (but without
> the water).
> You cut off a piece, knead it for a while
> and form it to the shape that you need,
> put that in place and mount the exhaust.
> It works perfect, even at the head/exhaust
> point, where things get pretty hot.
> There are other 'kneadables' too. Use
> the 'iron', which is best suited.
> Don't get it in between threads. You'll have
> a problem unscrewing later, because it does
> not dissolve or melt at high temp.
> Rob.
> It looks like the threaded, metallic gasket securing the header in place
> is shot. After pouring over both the Clymer unit twins manual and the unit
> 500 shop manual, I don't see the gasket in any of the exhaust diagrams.
> I'm sure that the head on the bike isn't the original unit; it has a
> single-carb manifold and doesn't appear to have exhaust adaptors.
> Is there a trick to mounting the header? Is there a gasket that fits in
> the exhaust outlet? The end of the header is threaded, as is the exhaust
> outlet in the head; however, when I push the header pipe in, there is a
> fair amount of wiggle room between the pipe's wall and the head. Is this
> where the gasket fits?
> I'm tempted to seal the header's threads with cement and just fit the
> header, though that would suck (pun intended) to have the cylinder suck in
> gasket cement particles.
> Any idears?