Another question.....cleaning the carb - Page 6

 

I'm in Nova Scotia.....
May be looking for a new project next year....
Got the Maxim running good, a few mods over winter and she's done...

 wrote:

did you like my custom? spent a year on it.

 someone@some.domain wrote:
wrote:

It looks pretty sweet, you can tell you spent time on her.

 wrote:

geez granny, we know how to be careful!

 

fakeDUTCH wrote:

Three or four hours is more like it. The individual carbs don't have to be
separated from each other. You'll probably need a slot screwdriver to shut
off the fuel petcock if it's like the petcock on my FZR. The pliers in your
tool kit will work to unclamp fuel hoses and vent hoses.

You'll probably need a #2 phillips screwdriver to unclamp the carbs and
remove the float bowls and the diaphragm caps and an 8mm box end wrench to
remove the main jet for cleaning. You'll need a 10mm open end wrench from
your tool kit to disconnect the throttle cables.

It's not really necessary to remove the pilot jets (idle jets) for cleaning
because Yamaha doesn't use cross-drilled pilot jets. You can just squirt
Berryman B12 or GumOut or STP carburetor cleaner through the pilot jets until
it come out the pilot air jet in the mouth of the carb and the four idle
mixture outlet ports in the throat of the carb.

If you really want to get into thoroughly cleaning the carbs you'll have to
carefully drill out the brass EPA anti-tamper plugs and remove the idle
mixture screws.

That process has been described so many times you can google for "EPA anti-
tamper plugs" on rec.motorcycles.tech.

If you talk to a lot of different mechanics, they will try to bullshit you
about your carburetors needing to be "synchronized". That's a lot of crap,
modern carburetors don't mysteriously get out of synchronization, but they do
get dirty inside and they need to be cleaned out when the engine starts
running rough and backfiring and stalling.

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