Battery [AGAIN] - Page 2

 Jones wrote:


The "quick fix" is to take your bike to the $tealer$hip and have the mechanic
$hotgun the problem by installing a $400 $tator and a $300 regulator plus $60
an hour labor to install the replacement part$, and, if that doesn't fix the
problem, he'll tell you that it will co$t you $60 an hour to trouble$hoot the
wiring harness. That is to discourage you so you will go away and stop
bothering him. He can't make the big buck$ fiddling about with your wires.


Electrosport says that most electrical problems are caused by bad connections.
All those plastic connectors in your wiring harnesses are not there for YOUR
convenience, unless you do all your own work.

The electrical connectors speed up the assembly of the motorcycle at the
factory, and they make it possible for the mechanic at the $tealer$hip to
make his money by quickly replacing $u$pected part$.

If the mechanic in$tall$ new part$ and it doesn't fix the problem, he doesn't
remove them and put them back into stock. Once bolted to your machine, they
are *your* parts, and you still have the problem.

I guess you can see why I hate $tealer$hip$ and the mechanic$ who work there.

This is a schematic for the full wave, three phase diode bridge in your
rectifier regulator. Current comes in through the yellow wires, follows the
arrows and goes out the red wire to the battery.

http://www.electrosport.com/Images/instr.diode.test.pdf

http://www.electrosport.com/electrosport_fault_finding.html  

Electrosport used to have a list of all the resistances of the stator coils
for many motorcycles, but I can't find it.

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