> You mean the Clutch beneath the alternator/flywheel/driven gear
> (Generator Rotor) with the Alternator attached to it....or the starter idle
> gear assembly?
Motorcycle over-running starter clutches used to be a ramp and roller
affair that automatically disengaged due to centrifugal force when the
engine started and rpm increased beyond what the starter was turning.
The ramps were arranged every 120 degrees and the roller had a little
spring and pusher that made the roller engage with the starter idler
gear whenever the engine was shut off.
But, in that last 20 years or so, we have seen increasing use of the
Sprag type over-running clutch which resembles a roller bearing. The
difference is that the individual elements between the inner and outer
bearing shells do not roll, they either bind or slip.
> Why is the Alternator directly attached to that Clutch rotor
> assembly, and not the crankcase?....
The alternator rotor is bolted to the end of the crankcase in many
designs, In other designs it's attached to a separate jackshaft that
is chain or gear driven.
The ramp and roller type starter clutches were bolted to the back of
the rotor.
> if that clutch seizes, your 3 bolted rotor will be thrashed.....
I have always said that over-running starter clutches were designed by
Dr. Frankenstein.
I've had trouble with ramp and roller starter clutches on two
motorcycles. In one case, I was riding 70 mph on the freeway and the
starter clutch suddenly locked up, backdriving the *starter motor* and
destroying the armature.
The second time the starter clutch seized up, it knocked a chunk out
of the idler gear. I had to push the motorcycle about half a mile to
get home with the clutch pulled in because it was stuck in gear.
The key problem that caused the starter clutch to seize was lack of
lubrication to the needle bearing which the idle gear ran on. That
particular engine was two stroke which did not have a pressurized oil
feed to the needle bearing area.
On a different motorcycle, the starter clutch bolts kept breaking due
to excessively revving up the engine too many times with the clutch
pulled in. One of the broken bolts jammed up the idler gear and the
motorcycle skidded a bit in a slow first gear corner.
> So that said, by your estimation, did I do any manage to damage to
> my starter system's (over-running clutch's dis/engagement) by multi pressing
> the electric starter????
You would have to disassemble the starter and the starter clutch to
know for sure whether anything is damaged. I doubt if you want to do
that.
But you probably won't have any problems.
I have only talked to one or two people who ever had starter clutch
problems. They owned early model Hinckley Triumphs.
@4ax.com:
> A lot of ppl multi press the starter switch to start the
> car/vehicle/scooter in a quick flicker of on/off....to get a better start
> with less battery drain.
Really? By "a lot of ppl" do you mean you and yer daddy who was a
mechanical dullard as well?
--
RCOS #7
IBA# 11465
http://imagesdesavions.com
> (Generator Rotor) with the Alternator attached to it....or the starter idle
> gear assembly?