Posted by vampire on October 15, 2005, 10:35 pm
RE: http://www.bikez.com/msgboard/msg.php?str_id5283&type=bike&id !143
Oil Change...At 2936 I changed the oil in the garage this morning. The dealer
had done it at the initial 1000k mark and I did it this time. I put it on the
center stand and tried without breaking it loose both cold and warm the oil
drain bolt..no joy. I could have put vice grips on it I suppose but decided it
had never been off..including at the dealers! How did they do it? Simple, they
don't bother with it. Instead they take a 19mm socket and easily pull the oil
strainer off instead. It drains the sump completely and works just as well with
better access. I just put a 3 quart plastic bowl beneath it and carefully pulled
it off. The strainer fits inside the spring and the whole thing comes out
easily. I cleaned the strainer with grease cleaner and reinserted it. It is
directly below the bike when on the center stand. The oil drain plug is on the
left side as is the oil filter which I removed with metric box wrenches easily
and replaced with a Yamaha filter. A Suzuki part is exactly the same filter by
the way. Once disassembled, I put new O rings and reassembled and filled with
oil and ran. It works fine. I probably won't bother with the oil drain bolt
though I might buy a spare for the time I try it with vice grips and it ruins
it.
Much simpler to use the oil strainer which is much larger and easier. The
mechanic had mentioned to me that you needed a 19mm wrench to change the
oil...and I didn't understand what he meant. He meant, "don't fool with the oil
drain bolt at all." For them it's too slow but it is far more positive and easy
to use.
?------------------------------------QUESTION----------------------------------?
I havenīt tried the 19mm strainer yet, or even seen it yet on a 2005 Maj. So I
was wondering about how many ft/lbs torque are needed to replace the strainer
16/realsnug...?
I know the "conventional" drain bolt takes a sixpoint socket, a strong lever,
and a hammer. Problem is that there is little room for the hammer, to unseize
the bolt because of the center stand.
Torque extenders are too unreliable to keep a 90degr. angle with some 400
ft/lbs, and will tilt/jar the bike some.
My manual hasn't arrived yet...how tight?
Cheers
Triad Productions-Fantalla(c)~EZine~ParaNovel
National Association of Assault Research
http://ammo.at/lacasse http://bob.reachme.at
Posted by Robert Bolton on October 15, 2005, 11:18 pm
> RE: http://www.bikez.com/msgboard/msg.php?str_id5283&type=bike&id !143
> Oil Change...At 2936 I changed the oil in the garage this morning. The dealer
> had done it at the initial 1000k mark and I did it this time. I put it on the
> center stand and tried without breaking it loose both cold and warm the oil
> drain bolt..no joy. I could have put vice grips on it I suppose but decided it
> had never been off..including at the dealers! How did they do it? Simple, they
> don't bother with it. Instead they take a 19mm socket and easily pull the oil
> strainer off instead. It drains the sump completely and works just as well
> with
> better access. I just put a 3 quart plastic bowl beneath it and carefully
> pulled
> it off. The strainer fits inside the spring and the whole thing comes out
> easily. I cleaned the strainer with grease cleaner and reinserted it. It is
> directly below the bike when on the center stand. The oil drain plug is on the
> left side as is the oil filter which I removed with metric box wrenches easily
> and replaced with a Yamaha filter. A Suzuki part is exactly the same filter by
> the way. Once disassembled, I put new O rings and reassembled and filled with
> oil and ran. It works fine. I probably won't bother with the oil drain bolt
> though I might buy a spare for the time I try it with vice grips and it ruins
> it.
> Much simpler to use the oil strainer which is much larger and easier. The
> mechanic had mentioned to me that you needed a 19mm wrench to change the
> oil...and I didn't understand what he meant. He meant, "don't fool with the
> oil
> drain bolt at all." For them it's too slow but it is far more positive and
> easy
> to use.
>
?------------------------------------QUESTION----------------------------------?
> I havenīt tried the 19mm strainer yet, or even seen it yet on a 2005 Maj. So I
> was wondering about how many ft/lbs torque are needed to replace the strainer
> 16/realsnug...?
> I know the "conventional" drain bolt takes a sixpoint socket, a strong lever,
> and a hammer. Problem is that there is little room for the hammer, to unseize
> the bolt because of the center stand.
A hammer shouldn't be required, although some people can really good at
tightening bolts.
> Torque extenders are too unreliable to keep a 90degr. angle with some 400
> ft/lbs, and will tilt/jar the bike some.
> My manual hasn't arrived yet...how tight?
As tight as you can by hand while using the socket and the strong lever.
Robert
Posted by -remove_this_for_email-vampire on October 15, 2005, 11:55 pm
wrote:
|>
|>>
|>>
|>> RE: http://www.bikez.com/msgboard/msg.php?str_id5283&type=bike&id !143
|>>
|>> Oil Change...At 2936 I changed the oil in the garage this morning. The dealer
|>> had done it at the initial 1000k mark and I did it this time. I put it on the
|>> center stand and tried without breaking it loose both cold and warm the oil
|>> drain bolt..no joy. I could have put vice grips on it I suppose but decided
it
|>> had never been off..including at the dealers! How did they do it? Simple,
they
|>> don't bother with it. Instead they take a 19mm socket and easily pull the oil
|>> strainer off instead. It drains the sump completely and works just as well
|>> with
|>> better access. I just put a 3 quart plastic bowl beneath it and carefully
|>> pulled
|>> it off. The strainer fits inside the spring and the whole thing comes out
|>> easily. I cleaned the strainer with grease cleaner and reinserted it. It is
|>> directly below the bike when on the center stand. The oil drain plug is on
the
|>> left side as is the oil filter which I removed with metric box wrenches
easily
|>> and replaced with a Yamaha filter. A Suzuki part is exactly the same filter
by
|>> the way. Once disassembled, I put new O rings and reassembled and filled with
|>> oil and ran. It works fine. I probably won't bother with the oil drain bolt
|>> though I might buy a spare for the time I try it with vice grips and it ruins
|>> it.
|>>
|>> Much simpler to use the oil strainer which is much larger and easier. The
|>> mechanic had mentioned to me that you needed a 19mm wrench to change the
|>> oil...and I didn't understand what he meant. He meant, "don't fool with the
|>> oil
|>> drain bolt at all." For them it's too slow but it is far more positive and
|>> easy
|>> to use.
|>>
|>>
?------------------------------------QUESTION----------------------------------?
|>>
|>>
|>> I havenīt tried the 19mm strainer yet, or even seen it yet on a 2005 Maj. So
I
|>> was wondering about how many ft/lbs torque are needed to replace the strainer
|>> 16/realsnug...?
|>>
|>> I know the "conventional" drain bolt takes a sixpoint socket, a strong lever,
|>> and a hammer. Problem is that there is little room for the hammer, to unseize
|>> the bolt because of the center stand.
|>>
|>A hammer shouldn't be required, although some people can really good at
|>tightening bolts.
I've never experienced the drain bolt opening without the use of a
hammer and a good 6 socket...Seen Mechanics do it that way,,,
|>
|>> Torque extenders are too unreliable to keep a 90degr. angle with some 400
|>> ft/lbs, and will tilt/jar the bike some.
|>>
|>> My manual hasn't arrived yet...how tight?
|>>
|>As tight as you can by hand while using the socket and the strong lever.
|>
I hope I don't strip anything, since there is probably a minimal thread
on this oil pan strainer, it would be around 17lbs like the drain bolts.
The Honda Elite only has about 3 threads on the drain bolt...Which U
wonder how come it takes some 400 lbs to remove it?
|>Robert
|>
Triad Productions-Fantalla(c)~EZine~ParaNovel
National Association of Assault Research
http://ammo.at/lacasse http://bob.reachme.at
Posted by Robert Bolton on October 16, 2005, 5:08 am
> wrote:
> |>
...
> |>> I know the "conventional" drain bolt takes a sixpoint socket, a strong
> lever,
> |>> and a hammer. Problem is that there is little room for the hammer, to
> unseize
> |>> the bolt because of the center stand.
> |>>
> |>A hammer shouldn't be required, although some people can really good at
> |>tightening bolts.
> I've never experienced the drain bolt opening without the use of a
> hammer and a good 6 socket...Seen Mechanics do it that way,,,
> |>
Well, I can't say I've never done it that way, but the bolt shouldn't be that
tight really. Don't tighten it that way. Thinking about it, I think I usually
bang on the wrench with the palm of my hand to knock the bolt loose. I changed
the oil on 4 cars over the last two weekends and didn't have to use a hammer to
get them out (steel bolt/steel pan), but bolts can kind of sieze into aluminum.
> |>> Torque extenders are too unreliable to keep a 90degr. angle with some 400
> |>> ft/lbs, and will tilt/jar the bike some.
> |>>
> |>> My manual hasn't arrived yet...how tight?
> |>>
> |>As tight as you can by hand while using the socket and the strong lever.
> |>
> I hope I don't strip anything, since there is probably a minimal thread
> on this oil pan strainer, it would be around 17lbs like the drain bolts.
> The Honda Elite only has about 3 threads on the drain bolt...Which U
> wonder how come it takes some 400 lbs to remove it?
Maybe the threads are bunged up from being overtightened or cross-threaded?
When I say as tight as you can by hand, I'm assuming you're in average shape and
not using a 3 foot breaker bar. I'd say as tight as you can with an 8 inch
wrench or ratchet maybe, and not absolutely as tight as you can. Not even that
tight if your a professional wrestler who uses steroids.
Robert
Posted by -remove_this-vampire on October 16, 2005, 7:56 pm
wrote:
|>
|>> On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 19:18:22 -0800, "Robert Bolton"
|>> wrote:
|>>
|>> |>
|>...
|>> |>> I know the "conventional" drain bolt takes a sixpoint socket, a strong
|>> lever,
|>> |>> and a hammer. Problem is that there is little room for the hammer, to
|>> unseize
|>> |>> the bolt because of the center stand.
|>> |>>
|>> |>A hammer shouldn't be required, although some people can really good at
|>> |>tightening bolts.
|>>
|>> I've never experienced the drain bolt opening without the use of a
|>> hammer and a good 6 socket...Seen Mechanics do it that way,,,
|>> |>
|>
|>Well, I can't say I've never done it that way, but the bolt shouldn't be that
|>tight really. Don't tighten it that way. Thinking about it, I think I
usually
|>bang on the wrench with the palm of my hand to knock the bolt loose. I
changed
|>the oil on 4 cars over the last two weekends and didn't have to use a hammer
to
|>get them out (steel bolt/steel pan), but bolts can kind of sieze into aluminum.
|>
|>> |>> Torque extenders are too unreliable to keep a 90degr. angle with some 400
|>> |>> ft/lbs, and will tilt/jar the bike some.
|>> |>>
|>> |>> My manual hasn't arrived yet...how tight?
|>> |>>
|>> |>As tight as you can by hand while using the socket and the strong lever.
|>> |>
|>> I hope I don't strip anything, since there is probably a minimal thread
|>> on this oil pan strainer, it would be around 17lbs like the drain bolts.
|>> The Honda Elite only has about 3 threads on the drain bolt...Which U
|>> wonder how come it takes some 400 lbs to remove it?
|>>
|>Maybe the threads are bunged up from being overtightened or cross-threaded?
|>When I say as tight as you can by hand, I'm assuming you're in average shape
and
|>not using a 3 foot breaker bar. I'd say as tight as you can with an 8 inch
|>wrench or ratchet maybe, and not absolutely as tight as you can. Not even
that
|>tight if your a professional wrestler who uses steroids.
|>
|>Robert
|>
On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 01:08:20 -0800, in alt.scooter you wrote:
|>
|>> On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 19:18:22 -0800, "Robert Bolton"
|>> wrote:
|>>
|>> |>
|>...
|>> |>> I know the "conventional" drain bolt takes a sixpoint socket, a strong
|>> lever,
|>> |>> and a hammer. Problem is that there is little room for the hammer, to
|>> unseize
|>> |>> the bolt because of the center stand.
|>> |>>
|>> |>A hammer shouldn't be required, although some people can really good at
|>> |>tightening bolts.
|>>
|>> I've never experienced the drain bolt opening without the use of a
|>> hammer and a good 6 socket...Seen Mechanics do it that way,,,
|>> |>
|>
|>Well, I can't say I've never done it that way, but the bolt shouldn't be that
|>tight really. Don't tighten it that way. Thinking about it, I think I
usually
|>bang on the wrench with the palm of my hand to knock the bolt loose. I
changed
|>the oil on 4 cars over the last two weekends and didn't have to use a hammer
to
|>get them out (steel bolt/steel pan), but bolts can kind of sieze into aluminum.
|>
|>> |>> Torque extenders are too unreliable to keep a 90degr. angle with some 400
|>> |>> ft/lbs, and will tilt/jar the bike some.
|>> |>>
|>> |>> My manual hasn't arrived yet...how tight?
|>> |>>
|>> |>As tight as you can by hand while using the socket and the strong lever.
|>> |>
|>> I hope I don't strip anything, since there is probably a minimal thread
|>> on this oil pan strainer, it would be around 17lbs like the drain bolts.
|>> The Honda Elite only has about 3 threads on the drain bolt...Which U
|>> wonder how come it takes some 400 lbs to remove it?
|>>
|>Maybe the threads are bunged up from being overtightened or cross-threaded?
|>When I say as tight as you can by hand, I'm assuming you're in average shape
and
|>not using a 3 foot breaker bar. I'd say as tight as you can with an 8 inch
|>wrench or ratchet maybe, and not absolutely as tight as you can. Not even
that
|>tight if your a professional wrestler who uses steroids.
|>
|>Robert
|>
The threads are all Manufacturer stock, untouched yet, it's a new
bike....but hot metal does seize.
From what I heard, a standard six point socket, will unseize the 12?
thread aluminum bolt, without having to go for the large minimal threaded
strainer underneath.
ciao
Triad Productions-Fantalla(c)~EZine~ParaNovel
National Association of Assault Research
http://reachme.at/bob http://bob.reachme.at
XML Sitemap
> Oil Change...At 2936 I changed the oil in the garage this morning. The dealer
> had done it at the initial 1000k mark and I did it this time. I put it on the
> center stand and tried without breaking it loose both cold and warm the oil
> drain bolt..no joy. I could have put vice grips on it I suppose but decided it
> had never been off..including at the dealers! How did they do it? Simple, they
> don't bother with it. Instead they take a 19mm socket and easily pull the oil
> strainer off instead. It drains the sump completely and works just as well
> with
> better access. I just put a 3 quart plastic bowl beneath it and carefully
> pulled
> it off. The strainer fits inside the spring and the whole thing comes out
> easily. I cleaned the strainer with grease cleaner and reinserted it. It is
> directly below the bike when on the center stand. The oil drain plug is on the
> left side as is the oil filter which I removed with metric box wrenches easily
> and replaced with a Yamaha filter. A Suzuki part is exactly the same filter by
> the way. Once disassembled, I put new O rings and reassembled and filled with
> oil and ran. It works fine. I probably won't bother with the oil drain bolt
> though I might buy a spare for the time I try it with vice grips and it ruins
> it.
> Much simpler to use the oil strainer which is much larger and easier. The
> mechanic had mentioned to me that you needed a 19mm wrench to change the
> oil...and I didn't understand what he meant. He meant, "don't fool with the
> oil
> drain bolt at all." For them it's too slow but it is far more positive and
> easy
> to use.
>