Reliability of Chargers - Page 3

 declaimed the following in alt.scooter:


    In short, leave the ignition and handle-bar unlocked.

    There is no alarm -- just an ignition immobilizer module of some
sort (I don't know what type -- the previous Vespa made it obvious as it
came with a master key that could be used to reprogram the system to
recognize new key-chip)

    Actually -- that may not work either... While the warning LED may
not flicker (I'd have to check), the unlocked position may be energizing
the key charge/sense coil; that likely draws more power than a simple RC
trigger on an LED.


    Besides, I'm not the original poster -- the person with the
non-start problem. I just posted how my large machine behaves (along
with the hearsay that some other large slow-idling machines also do not
charge at idle)
--
    Wulfraed    Dennis Lee Bieber        KD6MOG
    wlfraed@ix.netcom.com        wulfraed@bestiaria.com
        HTTP://wlfraed.home.netcom.com/
    (Bestiaria Support Staff:        web-asst@bestiaria.com)
        HTTP://www.bestiaria.com/

 

Simple logic tells me that if the bike isn't in a secure place, and
you're nowhere near it, this is precisely the sort of time it would get
nicked.


--
BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Honda CB400F & XBR500  Triumph Street Triple
Suzuki TS250ER
If you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. And RTFM.
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com

 On Thu, 25 Jun 2009 22:34:37 -0700, Dennis Lee Bieber

|>
|>    OTOH: it is time for me hook up the intelligent charger for a few
|>hours -- just to ensure the battery hasn't sulfated (the charger has a
|>desulfate mode which attempts to desulfate a battery by using high
|>amperage pulses at around 15-16 volts)

    You let that run through your system??? how's that???

    With a no-load rectifier of 14.9.......I remove the (-) terminal
for that 15-16-17 volt stuff.... or am I just being paranoid somewhere.

 declaimed the following in alt.scooter:



    Hasn't seemed to cause any problem yet... The only active circuit
with the key off is the immobilizer LED; the main circuits in a logical
layout should be on the other side of the ignition switch -- the only
remaining "direct connect" stuff should be the output of the voltage
regulator from the alternator (or whatever circuit they use) and the
input to that is high voltage to begin with... {You don't want to see
what I did to car battery in the 80s when my voltage regulator failed
HIGH... I was pumping >100V into that battery; had some very bright
headlights for the era though <G>. Shortly after replacing the regulator
I also had to replace the alternator -- the load to create that 100V
took its toll on the pulley bearing... Chrysler floating field
regulator}
 

    Presuming a negative ground system -- that's the one terminal I
wouldn't want to remove as any leakage on the positive side is going to
be looking for a way to get to ground... (In fact, it is often
recommended that the final connection in charging or jumping be made TO
vehicle ground, AWAY from the battery, so sparks don't ignite an gas
discharge -- hence one needs the negative battery pole in place)

--
    Wulfraed    Dennis Lee Bieber        KD6MOG
    wlfraed@ix.netcom.com        wulfraed@bestiaria.com
        HTTP://wlfraed.home.netcom.com/
    (Bestiaria Support Staff:        web-asst@bestiaria.com)
        HTTP://www.bestiaria.com/

 
My two bits, get rid of the lead acid battery and put in a niMH you
can charge these in 30 minutes form dead with no problems. Lead acid
batteries are a hassle, they simply cannot be fast charged as the
voltage rises and they produce gas. ( Sounds like me at a fast food
place!!)  Another alternate for this kind of problem is to have two
batteries and make  a quick change system so you can get it in and
out. Anderson connectors are fantastic for this kind of job. Keep one
charged and change them over as needed.